Discharge Hose Assembly for submersible pump (above)
Abbott Rubber 1147-2000-50 PVC Discharge Hose Assembly, Blue, 2" Male X Female NPSM, 65 psi Max Pressure, 50' Length, 2" ID
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VALVE & COUPLING for submersible pump (above)
DIXON VALVE & COUPLING Global Cam & Groove Type A
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Things we want on SyHayat:
Walder Boom Break
Boombrake Walder® 403
To eliminate the dangers inherent when jibing, the WALDER® 403 boombrake controls the horizontal and vertical movement of your boom – allowing it to sweep gunwale to gunwale with complete safety.
The DST800 is a Smart™ TRIDUCER®Multisensor that offers depth, speed, and temperature functions in one compact thru-hull fitting. The low-profile, retractable sensor computes accurate depth, speed, and temperature data and sends it to any NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000® display or network.
Airmar's Smart Sensors have embedded microelectronics—the transducer element and signal processor are only millimeters apart. The signals from the sensors are processed right inside the housing itself. All that is needed to receive depth, speed, and temperature data is a single cable into a compatible network or display.
The wide, port-starboard, fan-shaped beam is able to find the bottom even when installed on a high-deadrise hull or a heeling sailboat.
Use silicone spray on an O-ring; Never use Vaseline or lip balm on seals......
Use magnet (ring) around the metal oil filter on the engine to keep metal shavings on the filter instead of traveling through the engine as the oil travels around the engine cooling it.
PbBlaster (carefull it can dissolve plastic...)
Kroil- penetrating oil
boeshield T-9 on metal to prevent corrosion -apply liberally
Liquid wrench
Lanocote - marine grade rust and corrosion protection and anti seas in fittings
Tef-gel - corrosion prevention and anti sees.
Seafoam Deep creep
One to one Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid
tef-gel
T-9 rust and corrosion protection
CorrosionX - for when u see corrosion and all electrical connections. Paint parts so they don’t rust.
“Never Dull” - shine chrome surfaces
prism - metal polish and fiberglass deoxidizer
Duralac - anti corrosive joint compound that inhibits electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals
Black plastic wire ties work best
Lighter fluid - used as a cleaning fluid for small items such as very small bearings.
White Marine Tex - super epoxy for all kinds of repairs
KOSSAN GLUE is specially formulated for specialised use in the MARINE and CONSTRUCTION industries. It has excellent adhesion and strength. Use to bond WOOD, CONCRETE, CERAMICS, PLASTICS and OTHER SURFACES
Silicone grease to oil rubber-o-rings
Sewing machine oil - use to oil for very small gears and bearings
PB Blaster or AeroKroil penetrant into those rusted shut areas. Wait a day.
Allied Titanium from Washington State - Clovis pin made from titanium 3.5 times stronger than 316 stainless steel pins. Much better for the salt environment. Chain plates and bow roller assambley
Stainless steel corroded your aluminium:
For an aluminum casting might just hook the positive lead directly to the casting to heat the aluminum. In any case, multiple iterations of heating and quenching with penetrating oil will be needed unless you get lucky. An impact wrench also helps.
Jumper cable trick.
Hook jumper cables up to the battery as you normally would. On the other end put a bolt (1/4" x 2" bolt works fine) in the positive lead clamp of the jumper cable. Clamp the negative lead as close to the offending bolt as possible. Touch the bolt in the positive lead clamp to the head of the fastener. You set up what is essentially an arc welder. Will heat the fastener to a cherry red if left in contact long enough. It also gets the fastener way hotter than you can with a MAPP torch. It works really well as it only heat up the area of the fastener and not burning up the surrounding country side like you do with a torch. It is really the only way to get serious heat to a fastener if there is painted surfaces or plastics close by. Quench the heated fastener with penetrating oil. Try to remove the fastener with an impact driver, either manual or power. Repeat the process till you break the fastener loose. Other than using the trick to remove all the fasteners on a 44 year old mast, used it to get corrosion welded bolts out that passed through substantial aluminum castings on my self steering vane.
Having said the above, the hardest fastener to remove is not one that is threaded into aluminum but one that simply passes through an aluminum casting like cleats, etc. Getting the bolts out of the self steering casting took something north of 25 iterations, heating with the jumper cable and quenching with penetrating oil over many days. A good idea to coat the shaft of any fastener in aluminum cleats or castings with Lanocote.
Clean with Flitz, then put on several applications of Collinite Insulator Wax. Then use Starclean every week. You just wipe on the Starclean with a wet sponge, rinse and chamois.
White boric acid mixed with condensed milk make paste. Deposit paste in areas that have cockroach and ants. The paste dries and eventually are eaten. The animals die.
Note: Lead acid battery fully charged should show 12.6 volts
DIESEL FUEL FILTRATION SYSTEM:
Custom SMX FUELTRATION ™ system for polishing, priming, and transferring fuel put together by the owner who was tired of clogging his Racors every 8-10 hours.
But in a nutshell, “Algae-X” and “Fuel Mag” are some of those “magic magnet” contraptions, “RCI” is one of those “spinning” devices, and Multi-Stage Fuel filtration is filtering in series with progressively finer filtration from large to small ( maybe 30/20, 10/7 and 3/2 mics) . No “gizmo’s” no “magic,” just proven mechanical filtration using the most modern filtration product available.
And more important, there is NO such thing as “too much” or “too clean” concerning diesel fuel filtration when one really thinks about it. All you have to do to confirm this is to do some injector seat inspections at 2000 hours on some good running engines. This will tell you who has the minimum fuel filtration that gets by, and the ones who really have clean fuel.
The Overview of the Marine Fuel System
Because of the changing requirements of the modern “Common Rail” fuel systems that are showing up w/ the new Tier 2 marine diesel engines, it’s time to revisit this subject to be sure ours readers have the most up to date and field tested information available to protect their investment. Much of the information below has been part of other postings and small articles I’ve put together, but I thought it would be best to try and bring some of the older info into this and blend it in with some new ideas and information. I would also like to point out that all of this information is derived from a conglomeration of 10’s of thousands of hours of field operation, 100’s of thousands of gallons of fuel filtration with our proven systems, and from keeping up on the latest requirements and data from popular engine and filter manufactures.
Commercially proven Multi-Stage System meeting strict common rail fuel requirements – 20 year old fuel tanks, 1000 hours later, approx 60,000 gallons of fuel thru these filters, and ZERO issues.
There are some very important points to understand about the overall selection of YOUR filtration system, and listed below are some of them that seem to be the least understood and may require some additional thought before you make the choice:
The Total Fuel Flow of your engine-not just the max rated fuel burn. It’s real typical to have a diesel engine rated at 300 HP (16 GPH max fuel consumption at rated WOT) but have a fuel flow of 60 GPH-1 gallon per minute ! Your entire fuel delivery and filtration system needs to be sized for the max fuel flow and not just maximum fuel consumption.
The Tankage or Holding Methods your vessel-older fuel tanks will typically have something in the fuel tank that that you do not want your engine to burn or get anywhere near the “on-engine” or last chance filter that is part of the engine fuel system. Whether it is be some type of growth (algae), accumulated “mud” (diesel fines, sludge build-up, etc), rust flakes (from older steel/iron tanks), water, internal tank coatings that are deteriorating, or ???, there is always something in there that should not make it past your OFF-ENGINE / PRIMARY fuel filter system. Remember this for later.
Your Application and Use – Using your vessel for the weekends and making 150 mile round trips 10-20 times a year is very different than working your vessel 20 days a month 10 months out of the year. Big fuel burners will typically need larger capacity fuel filters to keep maintenance intervals to an acceptable level, but anyone will benefit from more filtration capacity as it will eventually pay dividends by not clogging as easily when you (finally) get that lousy tank of fuel.
The Fuel Injection System Requirements of your engine – Every manufacturer of diesel engines have certain MINIMUM requirements for the quality of the fuel that is fed to the engine. Cleanliness is next to godliness when we talk fuel injection as there is no such thing as “too clean”.. So, after spending 10’s of thousands of $$ on either a new boat or a repower, why would not spending a few $100 more by upgrading the “minimum” of fuel filtration equipment that is typically part of the supplied equipment list in just about every boat I see, not be a wise investment? Adding an additional layer of fuel filtration protection and using the most modern filtration media available will always be the best money spent for long term reliability for any fuel supply system on a diesel engine-and that applies to your truck and RV too. Things have improved much since the days of cellulose or treated cellulose media typical of most replacement fuel filter elements.
100% “Marine Tuff” Multi-Stage fuel filtration with new SMX designed Filter Heads, premium Fleetguard Filters, and “Drag Pointer” vacuum gages – With rated flows ratings to 100 GPH + with a minimum of restriction along w/ superior filtration and capacity, Multi-Stage Fuel Filtration has been proven in the toughest marine applications for over 20 years.
Multi-Stage Filtration
Note: As I see it, all filtration before the engines “last chance” fuel filter is “primary” regardless of what you have in place.
Simple and effective Multi-Stage Fuel Filter System. No messy & leaky bowls to deal with…
Excellent choice for 90% of all vessels.
So what is “Multi-Stage filtration??
To me, proper fuel filtration for the type of marine vessels generally discussed in the forums athttps://www.sbmar.com/community/, all comes down to using a simple multi-stage filtration set-up (a minimum of 3 distinct stages/components) starting with largest practical and effective mechanical spin-on filter with around a 20-30 micron rating. This is your PRIMARY fuel filter (part of the entire “primary system” which is before your engine) and we call them “bulk separators” or “mud filters”. In actuality, the first part of this primary line of defense can not only remove most of the mud and crud, algae and diesel fines, and extend filter maintenance many times, it can also remove copious amounts of water, but this will depend upon the type of primary filter you use and HOW YOU maintain it. And BTW, a Racor 900 or 1000 w/ a 30 mic element could also qualify as a “bulk separator” in my book, although I consider its proper long term maintenance is rather messy and very time consuming.
Basic Filter System Dimensions
Our preference for a proven Primary or Bulk Separator fuel filter?? In 95% of our work, the Fleetguard “spin-on” FF5013 is the ticket as it offers a 20 mic BETA rating, a flow rate of 100 GPH clean ½” Hg pressure drop, has a built-in water drain, has no “plastic” bowls to leak or discolor, and has proven itself to do the job. For super high capacity, we use the Fleetguard FS 1218 – About a 250 GPH flow rate, has a “crud capacity” of about 7 times that of a Racor 1000, and has all the best needed features for use as a high capacity Primary bulk separator.
Our second stage of the “Multi-Stage” fuel filter system
After this primary line of defense comes your main fuel water separator, your Racor 900 or 1000 ( if you feel the need to have “Racor” on your boat) , or other type of quality fuel water separator. We prefer a Fleetguard FS19596, FS 1000, or FS1015 – listed in order of overall capacity and filtering quality – that has the largest capacity practical, using the most modern 7-10 mic media specifically developed for water separation. Notice I didn’t mention the Racor FG 500 as I consider it too small (capacity wise) for anything over about 75 HP. What you choose here is usually governed by what the builder or past owner installed. And again, CAPACITY is the main key, as all of the issues that I have seen over years with problems in the fuel system and/or failed fuel components, is more or less related to the capacity, along w/ system component design and/or maintenance of this filter , and not the chosen micron size of the element, be it 2, 10, or 30 micron.
Our current choice for a properly designed and proven system is to use a Fleetguard FS1000 for the second part of the Multi-Stage system. The FS1000 Fuel/Water Separator was designed specifically to combat wear and corrosion in Electronic Injection Engines “EUI” technology. The FS1000 contains high performance synthetic media, “Stratapore” developed and made exclusively by Fleetguard, consisting of five bonded layers of multi-stage media. These are one layer of cellulose, three layers of melt-blown polyester and an additional protective layer. By itself, the FS1000 achieves performance previously obtained only with primary/secondary filter systems.
Racor 1000 w/ HD FS1218 Fleetguard primary bulk separator – Good for 700 hp
Upgrades for new Common Rail Fuel Injection & Problem Fuel Systems
Earlier, I mentioned “Common Rail” fuel systems, so I’d like to point out some issues that will now become important for all to understand.. First is that this fuel delivery design is now being used in many production hi-performance diesels for both on and off highway use. The design and idea has been around for decades, but it’s use and current development has taken a major leap in the last year or so. With COMMON RAIL fuel pressures going well above 20,000 PSI from the pump to the “common rail” and all the way to the injector itself, a small amount of contamination, or especially water, that makes it to the pump and/or the injector will take on a whole new meaning.
Multi-Stage Common Rail Fuel Injection protection – FF 5013 and FS 19596 with WIF Sensor
Complete On-engine Multi-Stage system with WIF Sensor and 2 mic “Last Chance” filter-required for Common Rail Fuel Injection specs – We prefer to call your “on-engine” factory supplied fuel filter as a “Last Chance” filter, as that’s what it really is!!
In the past, many injection pumps have survived a teaspoon of water over an hour or so of operation, and still continue to march (although they may not be 100%). An injector may or may not have survived this water (usually not) , but typically, only a tip would go with no or minimum of damage to the engine and/or your pocket book. Let that teaspoon of water (or even 1/10 of a teaspoon) or the smallest amount of contamination get to the new common rail pumps, and it will most likely be an instantaneous major mechanical component failure ( your $2000+ fuel pump), along with a good chance of having an injector stick open that instantly starts dumping vast volumes of fuel to the cylinder or cylinders. This leads to everything from a major fuel / engine overload , scuffing cylinders, cracked/melted pistons, etc, all happening in just a few seconds. You could think of it as a serious engine run-away. Talk about why fuel filtration needs to be reevaluated with this new technology. And , that’s why re-education is needed and why you’ll will find that all companies that use common rail are requiring new and very strict filtration criteria.
One way Cummins has addressed these new filtration requirements is by requiring a WIF sensor “WATER IN FUEL” (two supplied per engine), that MUST be installed in the primary fuel filter (s) or “primary system” of the vessel for each engine. Besides that, they require a 10 MIC (minimum) primary filtration (meaning that you must use a 10 mic filter BEFORE the engine and this filter MUST meet certain minimum requirements:
Primary Fuel Water Separator Specifications (minimum):
10 micron filter rating
Separator must have a 36 gram minimum capacity per SAE J1905
98.7% efficiency using ISO A2 test dust per SAE J1985 test methods
Filter must remove 95% (or more) coarse water droplets over the life of the filter, per SAE1488
BTW, these are the MINIMUM requirements – Ask yourself, is that what you really want??
Basic Common Rail Fuel Multi-Stage system with WIF sensor – 100% Cummins, 100% simple, and 100% effective
And, the new requirement for “last chance” fuel filtration on the engine is now 2 mic and this filter must also meet very strict requirements. Currently, Cummins is using a Fleetguard FF 5488 on all of the QSB’s, QSC’s and QSL’s as the on-engine final fuel filter. A quick check w/ Fleetguard yielded this info: 2 mic Stratapore high performance media w/ 19 grams of dirt holding capacity, .95″ Hg pressure drop/100 GPM clean w/ a 203PSI burst pressure rating. In case you don’t know much about filters, that’s a “filter” that doesn’t let much past it, but then again, it needs to be supplied w/ a specific quality of pre-filtered fuel. In fact, and this point must be understood. These systems are so particular as to fuel quality, you must NEVER pre-fill these filters before installation. You must let the pre-filtered fuel from your off-engine fuel system do that for you thru the priming mechanism built in the engine.
So, where does all this leave us at this point?? Will this scare away many from this technology because these new engines are so particular as to fuel quality? It may, in some cases, because many out there are perfectly happy with their current era of engines, and “new” stuff is just too scary or expensive to deal with. But for anyone buying new engines, they need to be aware of these upgraded requirements and have a thorough understanding of what needs to be accomplished with fuel filtration.
And just like before, these requirements are a minimum to get by (typical boat builders usually supply the “minimum” in order to just meet requirements). The basics are easily met and can easily be engineered into a new boat or repower, but to add that extra level of security, extra measures need to be taken so there is plenty of room for error ( like getting a lousy tank of fuel, or having water drip thru a deck fill or down a fuel tank vent) and still not have any problems.
Another filter we are using as the primary bulk separator, are elements specifically designed for water absorption. “Cimtek”http://www.cim-tek.com/index.asphave developed filtration products specifically for problem systems and where extra protection may be needed.
Good technology, good reading on their site, and they also private label their filters for many large companies including Parker (Racor). That speaks volumes to me. We will typically add a third filter to the primary or Multi-Stage system using a water absorbing bulk separator if some has large amounts of water in his tanks and needs extra protection.
More reading and thoughts about modern fuel filtration
“Microns” or Micron Ratings:
Now this is a term that carries some serious weight when selecting a fuel filter. Seems that average Joe is more impressed by the smaller the number, than the method used to measure or give the filter this “rating’, the quality and type of media used within the filter, and the capacity of the fuel filter( dirt/water holding capacity).
Hmmm, rated 60 GPH with a 2 mic element-sounds way overkill to me considering my engine only has 300 HP and burns 16 GPH at WOT. This is where Joe has missed the big picture.
The “micron rating” of fuel filters is a very simple way of allowing someone to select just one of the requirements for filtration. Our experience with marine fuel systems has proven to us that the nominal micron rating is not the best way of choosing correct filtration. Micron rating should only be used to categorize the media since the most fuel filter ratings were developed based on single-pass efficiency tests using uniform spherical particles as a system contaminant. In real life, diesel fuel contains contaminants of various sizes ranging from sub micron to 100’s of microns in size.
Keep this very important point in mind when you only think “micron rating” when choosing a filter – NEVER will you find a fuel filter with a rating of 10 microns, 2 microns, etc., that will stop 100% of the particles larger that this nominal rating. NEVER… What you will find with a quality filter is:
Beta Ratio micron rating
Fuel flow vs. pressure drop rating when clean
Dirt holding capacity vs fuel flow-pressure drop
“Free” and “Emulsified” water separation ratings
Ratings / specifications from SAE, ISO and other world recognized organizations
Other important parameters concerning collapse and pressure ratings, etc., that were developed in conjunction with a specific requirement from an engine manufacturer
Keep in mind that Cummins, specifically, does not recognize micron ratings as significant and specifically recommends the use of “Beta ratio” in selecting a filter to meet system requirements. I am certain many engine manufactures are of the same as to their requirements.
More help follows if you want to get real serious about fuel filtrations basics:
I am not one to argue another author’s ideas on fuel filtration when I think someone is suggesting (in so many words) that fuel that is cleaner, is better. So, I 100% agree it would be very difficult to say that “too much” fuel filtration is possible with the fuel injection equipment used w/ these 60-80HP per liter diesels today, so having fuel “too clean” may not applicable anymore. But, of course there are practical limits as to a filtering system that filters to well beyond needed cleanliness, and I will suggest that maybe something along the lines of practicality might be missing in many ideas written on the subject.
This is what should be conveyed and understood about “too clean”…
Triple Multi-Stage for problem fuel tanks – (Left) QSL’s in a small “crew boat” with problem fuel tanks – No chances taken here as we have a “water absorbing” media filter in the middle and a FS19596 with a WIF Sensor as our polisher/final stage – never too much!
Actually, filtering down to a nominal 2 mic level probably could have some quantifiable benefits ( injector seat & injection plunger/cam wear), even for and an engine that does not require that level of filtration. But this is not the reason I sell replacement injection pumps a couple of times a year and rebuilt injectors about 10 times a year. It’s because of water contamination, and the fact that the operator only relied on his 1st line of defense (typically a “RACOR”) and the marketing hype around it that led to complacency regarding fuel quality… So, I’m not going to argue about whether filtering below manufacturers’ specs has a benefit – what I’ll argue is the way most people filter fuel. And, that typically is that the vessel and / or operator is relying on a single filter to remove water and contaminants before he sends that “filtered” fuel to his on-engine” last chance fuel filter – This is a major mistake in judgment as to think that the last chance filter will save him. We hope to convince our customers that a well designed fuel system will deliver fuel to the engine, and to it’s “on-engine fuel filter”, that is all ready clean enough that he is not relying on this “last chance” filter to save him.
My thoughts, experience, and reasoning will never change about using multi-stage “primary filtration” and making sure you have the filtering capacity to get you through a lousy tank of fuel, or maybe two. With the advent of “common rail” fuel injection, just the slightest amount of water that makes it to the pump and/or injector will now have catastrophic consequences for not only your fuel system components, but could also take-out the engine.
Some RACOR Thoughts
A Racor 1000 can have very acceptable capacity when used w/ a 300-600 HP engine in typical recreational service. Use that same filter on a 200-400 HP diesel in an application that runs 2000-5000 hours per year, and in many/most cases if this unit used as the only filter before the engine, this widely used filter has unacceptable life between maintenance intervals. My point here is that designed flow rate of a filter should not be the only reason for selecting filter size but rather needs to be chosen based upon the application and vessel current use, and past fuel problem history (if any) of the vessel.
As many operators will confirm from personal experience, servicing a “Racor” can be a challenge if you want to try and keep the bowl clear and clean. Lots of parts, seals and just a plain hassle and extremely messy to deal with. But, get it clean once, install a bulk separator in front of it, and you’ll see a noticeable change in the maintenance of the Racor over the next few years, along w/ giving you that added layer of protection. Also, more times than not, I have seen the bowl on a Racor so dirty that its effective use as a “visual” has become totally worthless. My preference and experience is not to rely on a “visual” at all, but to drain a sample of fuel before you use your vessel. Maybe that reasoning comes from my training as a military pilot way back when, but for sure its merit cannot be questioned. Also, adding a WIF sensor is easy on the Racors and a few other types of filters. The factory Cummins VDO panels and harnesses are all ready set up with WIF circuitry/alarms, so if water has been an issue, you really do not have an excuse not to hook it up.
Practical Fuel Filtration to 2 MIC
Now that you have convinced yourself that you want that 2 mic filtration regardless of the engines requirements (I have no issue with that), but let’s do it in a practical fashion.
The last thing we want is to have that 2 mic filter to be hit with the crud coming from the tank. Filtering to 2 mic BEFORE the fuel gets to the engine may become a maintenance nightmare unless you have extremely large capacity in both unrestricted flow and element size, but would still have NO PRACTICAL sense to it if using only a Racor 1000 w/ a 2 mic element. It may be fine for a few hours of running ( a few to me is at least 50) , but most likely will lead to fuel restriction problems quickly. Running a pair of these (switch-able parallel), will certainly extend the time between element changes, but seems to be another impractical solution… The last chance filter on your typical engine is in the 5-10 mic range, and should be fed with clean fuel-no argument as we believe that filter should stay clean for at least 500 hours or more.
But again, if you want more practical assurance of delivering clean fuel to your engine (which is a GOOD thing) , filter before your Racor, or add another in series, but filter your fuel in micron stages (60 / 30 / 20 / 15 /10 / 5 / 2 mics ) as this is how practical filtering is done in all industries or applications. And, as with the addition of any more filtration, your choice of plumbing, and capacity and pressure drop across the total system when clean, needs to be accounted for. Even my own “basic” sizes for fuel suction hoses for applications that only needed ½” in the past, are now being re-evaluated as many may now need 5/8″ id (or larger) hose because of stricter fuel filter requirements needed by newer engines.
Properly set-up, it is very easy to install a practical 3 or 4 stage fuel filter system that has a pressure drop across the entire set of filters of less than 3″ HG at a flow of 75GPH or higher, and one that gives extended service intervals. But do this in reverse order with smaller sized filters in front, you’ll now have a system that will “clog” well before it should and will be much more expensive and time consuming to maintain or diagnose. A vacuum gage installed just after the last suction side filter will tell you when to change filters, but will have “less meaning” unless the filtering is done in correct order, from large to small. And, if your vessel use really dictates even more filtering capacity, then double up by paralleling two identical systems or by paralleling the primary – “primaries” only.
What I’m trying to get across is PRACTICAL fuel filtration – “filtering done in stages” – that has been proven to be effective long before I came along, but has been reinforced over the years from my own experience. My main customers are fuel burners of well over 5,000 gallons per year per engine, with some approaching 40,000+ gallons per year, so this is where I come from, NOT from something “I read”…
For a typical 8-12 L marine engine w/ flow rates of around 75 GPH and someone who wants to use a simple and very effective multi-state fuel system or a “primary fuel system”* before feeding fuel to his engine last chance fuel filter, using the Fleetguard FF5013 in combination with a FS 1000 is a proven and very effective system. For a simple upgrade to this, using the new FS 19596 with a built-in WIF sensor ( this is a new filter that fits/replaces where the FS1000 does, has more dirt holding capacity, and is a 7-8 mic hi-performance unit rated at 90GPH w/ a minimum pressure drop), he can’t go wrong. This combo is miles ahead in capacity, quality, safety of delivering clean fuel, and ease of use, compared to a Racor 1000.
Vacuum Gages and Fuel System Restriction
Installing a vacuum gage in your fuel delivery system is a worth while option and will pay for itself quickly when its function is understood by the boat operator.
Restriction or “Fuel Pressure Drop” across a filter is a function of fuel flow vs. restriction or “clogging” of the filter. A well designed fuel filter system, which includes all the types of fittings, hoses, valves, and “other things” incorporated into the finished system, should start out CLEAN under 3″ of Hg restriction, when measured in-between the lift pump and the last “off engine filter”. We typically mount the gage on or after the last filter in the primary Multi-Stage system because of convenience, and the fact that we do not consider the fuel line and fittings (if properly sized) between the last filter and the lift pump to be of any consequence in the overall restriction of the system.
My field work over the past 20 years has shown that “most” diesels with properly operating lift pumps and fuel systems can tolerate about 10″-15″ of mercury (Hg) restriction before starving for fuel… Again, always put your vacuum gauge after your “off engine” fuel filters, but before any pumps. And in actual operation, you will find that a good Multi-Stage system will clog 2-3 primaries (FF5013) before the FS 1000 needs replacing – The vacuum gauge will tell to that as that is what multi-stage is all about.
Multi Stage System – Parallel set-up for twin Main engines w/ single for twin 20 Kw aux engines
Tips for Your Selection of a Fuel Filter System
In all cases, regardless of how one decides to set up fuel filtration system, give these ideas / fuel system tips some thought, or keep them for future reference… And if someone has a few ideas to add, please don’t be shy as this is one of the main premises behind these forums “sharing information and ideas so all can benefit”.
A few pointers below to help YOU make the right decisions….
It’s always best to either draw your fuel from the bottom of the tank (you want the crap in your filters and not sitting in the bottom waiting to get stirred up in the first bad weather), OR have a drainable fuel tank sump, OR BOTH.
Be sure the fuel lines, valves and fittings that feed your filters do not restrict the flow or allow air to enter the system. Choosing the next size of filter in capacity ratings will assure you of a longer time between clogging.
A vacuum gauge installed just before a fuel lift pump will more that pay for itself if installed correctly and its operation is understood by the operator. The use of a vacuum gauge adds “science” as to when to change your filters.
Easy View Vacuum Gauges
An in-line sight glass or clear piece of vinyl hose (temporary) installed in the fuel line is one of the best tools for addressing fuel / air leaks in a fuel system when troubleshooting.
Always be sure the filters you choose to use are sized in stages with the largest capacity and nominal mic rating closer to the fuel tank. “Multi-Stage”, remember??
Be sure your “return fuel system” cannot be shut off when switching tanks or at any time during engine operation.
If the engine fuel system design allows the use of a submerged return line, consider this as a worthwhile addition to the fuel system. But, also read your engine installation requirements as not all systems recommend this, although MOST DO.
Fuel transfer: With multiple tanks and the need to transfer fuel with an electric pump, putting an old fashion type spring wound timer w/ normally open electrical contacts ( available thru many home improvement stores and industrial supplies) will save you from the many embarrassments that typically occur by pumping fuel into the bilge or overboard due to overfilling. I rarely recommend using return fuel for fuel transfer because of typical flow rates above 60 GPH in many cases, it is easy to “forget” about the valve you messed with a hour ago. We prefer using a 12 VDC electric pump with flows around 30-50 GPH with a fuel filter on the suction side of the pump (FF5013), w/ 60 minute timer. Not only will you not forget, you will be “polishing” your fuel in the best way – with the boat “rocking and rolling”. Need 50 gallons moved from port to starboard?? Just the right twist and your done!!
If you really want to know what type of ugly stuff is in your fuel tank and how good your filters are really working, cut open your “on-engine” spin-on and take a look. This is the one method that will let an operator really find out what is getting thru to his last chance filter on the engine. Cutting open filter in your Primary system, will tell you what’s really in the fuel tank.
If you have “Racor Phobia”, but tired of the mess having to take apart your Racor Bowl to clean it out, put a bulk separator spin-on in front of it. You’ll be amazed a year down the road at the difference.
Multi-Stage with Racor’s and fuel transfer polishing system
Simple and very effective upgrade for Racor’s – Adding a bulk separator as the primary
Be sure none of your fuel tank vent lines contain a “low spot” – you want them to drain completely when the boat is static or in motion. If they can run forward and rise at the same time, this is always a better choice for routing. With large wing tanks, it is usually best to vent on the inside top and fwd edge of each tank. This allows the tanks to vent better if the boat starts to heel during filling.
A properly installed sight gage on your fuel tanks is the best assurance of knowing how much fuel you really have.
When building / designing a fuel system w/ many pipe thread type fittings, manifolds, etc. consider the use of a 100% solids epoxy for the “pipe dope”. Many installations cannot tolerate even the slightest “sweat” of diesel on a fitting. We started this practice about 15 years ago, and we never get a “call back”… Grey “Marine Tex” and some Simpson (ET-22) products do a great job and will never let you down, besides being easy to use and clean up.
In closing, multi-step “Multi-Stage” filtration is the most effective and simple way to protect modern diesels from the contaminants found in fuel systems. To quote “Alaska Diesel,” (you know, those Lugger and Northern Light guys,) “Forcing fuel to go through even three separate, progressively finer filters is cheap insurance.”….
Multi-Stage & John Deere / Lugger – Good Friends!!
I’d like to express a few thoughts on this subject as it has come up many times in the past (at least indirectly) and many times just after some type of catastrophic engine failure that some unfortunate boater has experienced. Most of these ideas have already been posted in one form or another on Boatdiesel (a healthy discussion in a CAT thread a couple years back or from some of my other past postings), but still they need re-emphasizing. I’ll try to summarize a few points that I feel are the largest contributors to long, or short, engine life, while also adding a few more perspectives on this important subject. And, since this forum’s main focus is on smaller high output diesel engines that are between 4 and 15 liters of displacement developing 50 HP-60 HP per liter and up, let’s keep that in mind when reading or interpreting the following ideas and thoughts.
I’d also like to go back a ways and be sure that our readers understand that most of my background has been heavily influenced by working with post 1985 Cummins engine products and some of their engineering and application principles. But also, as horizons broadened, I developed what I think are general application guidelines and ideas that apply to any modern diesel used in marine service. Using these guidelines and ideas, I’m confident that these principles apply in any marine application.
When discussing engine life, I think… no, I KNOW, that the most significant part of the entire equation of vessel/diesel engine operation leading to long engine life starts with the way an engine is propped (loaded) during normal vessel operation (not during a boat sale “sea trial”). This is number one, but add to this that the average diesel boat operator or new boat buyer does not have a true understanding of the (his) application and engine loading in relationship to the engine that is installed in the boat… this is now the formula for premature engine failure. This is not because the vessel operator is “dumb,” he just has not been properly educated this way.
Do you think the boat broker told the prospective purchaser during a sea trial that he’d need to prop down 3″ of pitch after he filled the fresh water and bait tanks, and the boat would lose 4 K’s off the cruise speed, or his engines would be operating in a serious overloaded condition if no steps are taken to have the prop “adjusted”?
Now add to this that the engine manufacturer, as the provider of operational guidance for these high output marine engines, has not done a thorough job in explaining the proper operation of these engines. You have a variety of terms used to describe the output ratings of these engines (“high output or HO”,–“A, B, C, D, E”,– “M-1 M-2, M-3,M-4, M-5” — etc, etc., and you have words like “continuous” vs “continuous” being used with complete opposite meanings (depending on the manufacturer). How could a vessel owner, who is relatively new to diesel engine operation, have a clue as to what all this means…Many engine distributors provide customer briefings, sometimes AKA “Captain’s Briefings,” that are supposed to “train” the vessel owner in the basic operation and maintenance of the engine. In fact, in my opinion, this is only a guise as the real point behind this is actually a way to get the owner to employ the services of the company for maintenance services after the briefing.
What this type of briefing should be doing is explaining “duty cycle” based upon a daily operational basis, and explain, with better wording, that engine overload is a “fine line” that needs to be accounted for in the variables of engine operation when running right on the maximum recommended “cruise” RPM. I think that they should also use the term “prudent operation” when a pleasure boat engine is operating for extended times at maximum cruise ratings, regardless of term used to describe this type of operation. I know that ALL manufacturers of engines with these types of ratings per liter of displacement, should limit “maximum cruise” to a specific time per day and have a caution or “yellow” zone as part of the operation on the engine at these “maximum cruise” levels. They should have printed operation guidelines that stress proper “cruise operation” and stress the importance of adding weight to a planing vessel after the purchase, and how this interacts with the overall performance and ultimately, engine life. There is much more to vessel operation than “daily checks,” “required maintenance”, and “warm-up”, that seems to take up most O&M book guidelines and new vessel owner briefings. I sometimes wonder if the way “cruising” is explained or defined, it leaves the new vessel operator with thinking that “cruising” is the same as a trip down the interstate for 600 miles a day at 70MPH.
Engine loading and understanding how the engine is designed to operate is paramount to long engine life
Proper propping of a vessel cannot be stressed enough, will typically only come some time after the vessel has settled in to “its” normal running conditions, and then only with an understanding by the vessel operator of the engine’s operating requirements published by the engine manufacturer. But in addition to that, is the understanding that adding some conservatism, “PRUDENT OPERATION”, to these operating conditions by not running “on the edge” of these requirements, can mean the difference between 500 hours between catastrophic failures, and 5000 hours of relatively glitch free operation for the same engine.
The easiest and most proven way to accomplish this “conservatism” is by propping the vessel at full working weight to rated RPM plus 100 to 200 rpm** when using these types of diesels that develop upwards of 50-60 HP per liter. It’s actually very simple when you understand the whole picture of vessel operation and all of the variables that occur on the ocean over time.
**With the newer full authority electronic engine coming to the market, a different approach is needed to insure against engine overload.. (discussed in Part II)
I’ll pass along a very recent (and nasty) experience on an engine with a great historical track record directly related to propping, that went like this:
New repower about 5 years ago with a custom 31 ft planing hull.. Boat propped at rated + 125 RPM and after a couple of months of adding “gingerbread”, it settled in at rated + 100 RPM. About 3 years went by ( 900 hrs of trouble free operation). Boat sold and the new owner added not less than 1500 lbs of addition hardware within weeks of purchase. He also had NO Idea of the operational characteristics of the engine. He just “drove” it at whatever speed he thought the boat wanted to go. Added about 75 hours to the clock over the next year. Sold the boat to a new operator, and this operator also had zero experience or knowledge as to the parameters that the engine needed to operate under. This operator added more equipment and a bow thruster, changed the muffler to a highly restrictive type, and by now, the engine would only reach about 400 under rated under the best of conditions.
Where/what was this vessel run at? Between 0 and 50 RPM “off the top” which was now over-propped to 400 RPM less than rated. Result: Total melt down of #4 and a cracked block at about 1100 total hours. And, what really gets me, is the guy’s son is a boat broker and licensed Capt that used the boat extensively, and should have known better. He supposedly “knows” proper vessel/engine operation. So typical, but this is all after the facts were known. Moral of the story is: propping for the best engine life can only be done with proper education of vessel/engine operation. Using the rated RPM ++ under fully laden conditions will help assure that this type of failure will not be something to worry about.
Concerning this propping issue, let me add this to the subject. Using “EXACT MATH” to figure the correct prop size, does not apply, and even further, will never apply, and at best, will only guide the boat owner, builder, or architect, etc, to a reasonable starting point in his endeavors to get the best performance vs a combination of engine life and all of the other variables that affect vessel operation. The problem is though, with this approach, it seems “best performance” is given the lion’s share of this part of correct vessel propping as “speed sells”. Over the past 20+ years and having the opportunity to formally sea trial well over 200 vessels, I have been able to build a good database of engine performance/engine loading vs prop size. Comparing top speed vs cruising speed, planing vs “something else”, and the big one, “Overall ENGINE Life” vs “all of the above” mixed in with another 10 or so variables, there is no doubt how engine loading is directly related to engine life.
The “EXACT MATH” that typically comes from prop calculators, graphs, architects, builders, etc. when figuring a prop size is much more likely to lead to “running on the edge” or worse, than yielding the correct prop size to insure good engine life in relation to performance. Nothing can replace “on board” engine monitoring and the understanding of (all) engine operational parameters during normal operation…nothing.
Only with the proper education of the boat brokers, builders and vessel operators, along with a change in the way manufacturers provide operation and maintenance guidelines will we ever see positive improvements in the continuing cycle of well designed engines, with relatively low hours, having catastrophic failures within the first 2-6 years of new vessel operation. Add to this, that many newer vessels change ownership at 100-150 hour intervals during the first 300-600 hours/ 2-5 years of engine use, and this cycle is only amplified.
I hope the above will offer a partial solution and incite needed to how important proper engine loading is, and understanding that the starting point to proper engine loading is the propeller. Hopefully, this will lead to fewer postings asking help due to these types of failures directly related to the over propping your vessel
WATER TESTS FOR PATHOGENS
Hach pathoscreen medium mob pillows for 20 ml sample
.........Connect to battery red connection first / remove negative first .........
These deck units are our most popular. Our high quality compressor in a robust case that is virtually un-breakable and air tight. Includes a soft blue hose bag with one side vented for easy drying. These deck units are easy to store and can also be used as a portable unit in a dingy.
NEW: All Sea Breathe deck units are covered by a full 3 Year Warranty.
NEW: This unit is able to be switched from Two person mode to One person mode in seconds. This reduces power usage by 7 Amps. Also, this One Diver mode can be used if Two divers are in Shallow water.
NEW: While our standard units are already compact we are offering our Model 130-D and 230-D deck units with or without the case. Ordering these units without the case allows you mount or store the compressor in an even smaller area, perfect for those with limited storage on-board.
One clear advantage of Sea Breathe equipment is its eco-friendly electric battery-power source. Virtually silent and emitting zero-exhaust, it can be used almost anywhere and since there are no awkward tanks being carried, delicate reef damage is kept to a minimum. So, whether you’re relaxing among other boaters in a quiet secluded cove, or docked at a busy marina your Sea Breathe equipment is always welcome.
If you feel you need a trip line, you can just use one deeper than the water depth, and lash it the boat end of it with some small stuff to the chain. Use dacron or nylon, and it will sink with the chain, and be out of the way, but available if needed. In a crowded anchorage, this is a much more "polite" solution than a float.
When I do this, I tie a small block to my float. Then I run my trip line from my anchor, through the block at the float, and then tie a weight to the other end. As long as the total length is less than twice the anchorage depth, the line remains vertical.
For this reason I "invented" use of "hidden trip line" described below-
Step 1: Attach sturdy SS carabiners to each end of a strong floating line (dyneema floats and is stronger than polypro).
Length is determined by typical anchoring depths. I created two of these lines, one 30 feet for shallow anchorages, one 60 feet for deeper anchorages, and the two can be combined for really deep anchorages.
Step 2: When anchoring attach line to the shank nearest the head of anchor (most have a hole for this purpose. I installed a shackle on mine for this purpose). I usually know the depth where I will anchor ahead of time and have this line already attached before arrival so it's ready to go.
We are full time cruisers in the PNW who anchor 90+% of the time. In the past couple of years since "inventing" this strategy I've used the hidden trip line more than 60 times without a problem. Thankfully, I haven't needed it yet, but it gives me peace of mind to know I won't get stuck and lose my valuable anchor if it gets fouled.
Step 3: Deploy rode (chain, of course) and attach the other end of the hidden trip line a couple of feet ahead of its length (for a 30 foot trip line, attach to the rode at 28 feet or so) so it will float above the chain but far beneath the surface. It only takes a second to snag a chain link with the carabiner as the rode goes by. My chain is marked at 30 foot intervals, which makes placement easy, but it's also easy to see that you're reaching near the end of the trip line length as it gets deployed.
And that's it. The trip line is out of the way and hidden below the surface. If raising anchor and it gets stuck, it's usually the anchor getting fouled and the trip line can be easily unhooked from the rode and attached to a line to free the anchor.
If the rode gets wrapped around something this trip line will probably be inaccessible, but that's much rarer than the anchor getting fouled.
We are full time cruisers in the PNW who anchor 90+% of the time. In the past couple of years since "inventing" this strategy I've used the hidden trip line more than 60 times without a problem. Thankfully, I haven't needed it yet, but it gives me peace of mind to know I won't get stuck and lose my valuable anchor if it gets fouled.
Replace certain metal standing rigging with SPECTRA
RESPIRATOR MASK:
Respirator and Dust Mask Safety
Drew FryePublished:
March 17, 2020
Although falling off a ladder or cutting yourself with a sharp tool are the most common boatyard injuries, the risks we face from the foul air we breathe is more insidious, which is why a respirator or filter mask is an essential part of any do-it-yourselfers toolkit. This year, the Centers for Disease Control is advocating a strategy to ensure an adequate supply of respirator masks for medical professionals in the event of a wider outbreak of 2019 novel coronavirus (2019-nC0V).
A variety of the half-mask respirators, full-mask respirators and “dust” masks (like the 3M P95 particulate respirator) that are recommended as protection against the 2019 novel coronavirus are also used in other industries, including boat repair, and the CDC strategy is meant to ensure that immediate public health needs are prioritized.
The CDC’s strategy announcement is directed toward large-volume purchasing and supply managers in government, health care, and major industries. It is unlikely that relatively small population of individual DIY boaters who need masks will make a dimple in the supply chain. Nevertheless, it can’t hurt if we, also, support this coordinated effort by reducing our consumption of masks.
One way to reduce mask use is by substituting a potentially more harmful material that requires a mask for another that does not. For example, many marine coatings and treatments—such as water-based bottom paints—generally do not require a mask or filter of any sort. You can confirm safety requirements by referring to the Safety Data Sheet (SDS)—formerly referred to as the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)—for the product you are using.
If you do intend to use a mask, the following offers some tips on proper care on use. For a more detailed look at what type of mask best suits your project–including a review of our highest rated full mask respirator–see our in-depth report on this topic The Best Respirators for the Boatyard.
Marine paints contain solvents that can make you dizzy at best or increase cancer risk at worst. Dust from sanding wood is usually only a nuisance, but sanding bottom paint or grinding fiberglass presents serious health risks. Fortunately, theres a wealth of industrial experience with contaminated air to draw upon, and by taking appropriate precautions, there is no reason working on the boat cant be as safe as walking down the street.
Chemical risks can be identified by reviewing the Safety Data Sheet (SDS)-formerly referred to as the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)-for the cleaners, paints, solvents, and other hazardous materials you’ll be using. A Google search under the product name and safety data sheet should bring up the information you need. Review Section 3 (hazards identification), Section 5 (fire and explosion data), Section 8 (exposure controls/personal protection), and Section 11 (toxicological information). Specifically, Section 8 identifies the appropriate respirator cartridge type, although not the respirator classification, since that depends upon the expected concentration.
It is important to match the respirator cartridge with the chemical AND concentration. Vapors from some household cleaners and solvents can approach hazardous levels below decks. Active ventilation with fans and blowers can help reduce the risk.
Checking Fit
A respirator, vapor mask, or dust mask can’t protect you if it doesn’t fit your face. Its that simple. Anything that prevents a good seal-whether facial hair or a hollow under the side of your jaw-is unacceptable. In a workplace this fit test will be performed in a very rigid manner by a trained technician. However, for the sailor/occasional boat yard worker, we offer this shortcut procedure that is far better than nothing.
If you are farsighted, you can mount cheap reading glasses inside a full-face mask, such as the Scott AV-300, our top rated face mask.
Adjust the facemask to fit. Include any protective equipment you may wear, including goggles, eyeglasses, and hearing protection. Install organic vapor cartridges if applicable. Make sure any cartridge you use is certified by the relevant safety organization. In the U.S., this is the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH).
Testing Safety Masks for Fit
The following test will work with partial, or with full face masks. Spray a fine mist of perfume into the air, so that it drifts down over your head. For a dust mask or particulate filter, a good dusting of black pepper or a spray of very salty water will also work. Now, grimace or smile broadly while repeating the alphabet for 15 seconds. Tilt your head up and down and rotate side to side while reciting. If you can smell the perfume, you failed the test. If the pepper made you sneeze or you taste pepper, you failed the test. Adjust the straps and start over.
Don’t assume the respirator model your dock mate swears by will fit you properly. Like shoes, its not just the size, its also the shape. Choose the one that fits you properly, and the pair it with the correct cartridge, as designated by. It will work.
If you have facial hair, full-face respirators can be more tolerant of mustaches than half-face respirators. Sometimes wetting the whiskers down with Vaseline helps. Trimming is the safest option.
Return any mask that does not pass this fit test. Worse than not functioning properly, it gives you false security.
Each time you use a cartridge-type mask, perform an inward leakage test. Remove or block the cartridges with tape, and try to inhale. It should suck to your face, with no leaks, and maintain the vacuum for at least a few seconds. This confirms you are wearing it properly and that it is not damaged. Adjust until it seals.
Clean after every use; if it isn’t clean, you might forego using it-at great risk. Don’t forget to order spare cartridges and parts before you need them.
Filter cartridges start to degrade from the moment the seal on the packet is broken. Don’t expect a ‘new’ level of protection from filter that may have been used once but has been on the mask for a few months or more. Check with the manufacturer to get the life of a cartridge once opened.
Very true. After EVERY use the mask should go in a freezer bag to reduce the amount of solvent the cartridges draw in from the ambient air. When spent the cartridges will either increase resistance to breathing or you will be able to smell the solvent. If the solvent or chemical has poor warning characteristics (no smell) OSHA does not permit using an air purifying respirator.
It is a good habit to clean and inspect the mask after every use. It will be more pleasant to wear and will be ready. Don’t share masks.
STEP INTO BOAT:
My previous boat was a traditional cutter with an outboard rudder and boomkin, precluding the use of a common stern swim ladder. The wooden side ladder she came with was cumbersome and difficult to store. I replaced it with a simple step which hung over the topsides, and life was good. I eventually sold that boat and bought Nurdle, a 1979 Bristol 35.5 equipped with a conventional transom-mounted swim ladder. All was well until, in preparation for extended cruising, I decided to install a windvane self-steering device and the ladder had to go. Drawing inspiration from that simple step, I decided to make an improved version.
The original was a 2 x 12 plank, sturdy but very heavy. For the new one, I selected a piece of ¾” mahogany plywood, salvaged from a bulkhead replacement project on a friend’s Alberg 30 (“No Time for Perfection,” Good Old Boat, November 2014). The gate stanchions are 24 inches apart, which determined the step’s width. I had considered making it deep to fit a telescoping swim ladder, but that would require a depth of about 18 inches, which seemed excessive. I selected a generous 12-inch depth.
I started by drilling ¾” holes in the corners to fit the ½” suspension lines. The scrap ply I was using was already varnished and I left it this way on the bottom. But on the top, I wanted a nonskid surface. Having used KiwiGrip on my deck and been pleased with the results, I decided to try a homemade equivalent. I bought a pint of rejected latex paint at the big box store for $1.25. I removed the lid off it and let the contents dehydrate for a week or so, until it was goopy. I then laid this goopy paint on thick, using a texture roller to create a pattern. The result was acceptable, but I think the paint could have been even thicker at the start. Next time, I may try adding wood flour as a thickening agent.
After painting, I attached fender material to the front and back edges. I created this by splitting a pool noodle from the dollar store and removing a strip ¾” wide strip longitudinally. Pipe insulation may have been a good alternative and comes in different diameters. Satisfied with the size and shape, I cut strips of 10-ounce cotton duck I bought from Sailrite, hemmed the edges for easier handling, and applied them to the foam with contact cement. Next, I tacked them in place with small bronze ring shank nails, typically used to install brass weatherstripping. (Note: when purchasing these nails, bring a magnet with you, as some are only plated steel and will rust.
Next, I ran the suspension lines thru the holes with a stopper knot below. A loop at the appropriate level allowed hanging from the braces on the gate stanchion via a bow shackle. I use stopper knots to adjust the height so that it hangs where I want it, usually about 18 inches above the waterline, level with the top of the inflatable dinghy tube. When we have dogs aboard, I hang it higher so they can use it to help get themselves aboard. For swimming, I hang it much lower, closer to the water.
A friend expressed concern about the force the step is exerting on the stanchion bases, but given that the force is aimed nearly directly downwards, I think the force is less than might be created when leaning on the lifelines underway.
For another take on making a boarding step, check out “On-the-Fly Boarding Step,” an article by Connie McBride that appeared in the November 2017 issue ofGood Old Boat.
Does your sailing boat always lie steady as a rock at anchor? Or does she tend to wander back and forth like a restless mare in a corral? There are several ways of overcoming this, the best known being to use an Anchor Buddy or Sentinel (see http://www.sail-world.com/index_d.cfm?nid=38056!story). However, there's another excellent solution, and John Jamieson (Captain John) of skippertips.com shows this little-known technique that will help cure the problem fast and easily!
Some boats behave themselves while on the hook, while others will sway back and forth from side to side. This action--called 'sheering'--can put a lot of side load on the anchor shank. In some conditions, this could cause the sailboat anchor to break free and the boat to drag her anchor! Just the thought of this could cause you a stressful night on the hook--instead of a peaceful, tranquil one.
Three factors can lead to sheering and heavy ground tackle loads...
* Ocean Ground Swell
When ocean swell break on a sand bar, they expend their energy and die a quick death.
But some islands have smooth beaches. Instead of breaking, the swell wraps around the island's windward side and creates a ground swell on the lee side.
This results in an uncomfortable 'rock 'n roll' motion for anchored boats. Look for islands with deep coves on their lee sides for better protection.
* Freeboard and Windage.
Sailboats or power boats with lots of freeboard (the distance from waterline to the deck) present more surface area for the wind. Also, boats with lots of canvas--enclosures, Biminis, and dodgers--create excessive windage. Lower as much canvas as possible to reduce windage.
* Light or Beamy Hulls.
If you cruise or race in a lighter than normal hull, it will tend to sheer from side to side at anchor, even in light winds. The same goes for hulls with extreme beams, like catamarans and trimarans.
Enter the Riding Sail!
The riding sail looks like a pint-sized storm jib and hoists on the backstay. It acts like a weather vane on the roof of a barn to keep your bow pointed up into the wind at anchor. Follow these five steps to get your small cruising boat under control fast with this magic sail:
1. When to Hoist a Riding Sail?
Hoist your riding sail whenever you drop the hook. This becomes more important in windy anchorages. But even in lighter winds, it will help keep your boat's bow into the wind and under control.
2. Pick the Best Sailcloth Weight.
Choose heavy 6 oz. to 8 oz. sailcloth. Ask your sailmaker to hollow (concave) the leech and foot. This keeps flutter down. Veteran cruisers Steve and Linda Dashew recommend full length battens with extra heavy reinforced batten pockets. In high winds, this controls flogging and extends the sail's life.
3. Determine the Size You Need.
Sailboat ketches or yawls should reef the mizzen and use it as their riding sail. For sloops and power cruisers, use the sizes below, recommended by Sailrite. In a pinch, you could hoist a small storm jib on the backstay, as long as it lies within these sail area parameters:
Sailboats up to 35’ = 12.5 sq. ft. riding sail
Sailboats 35’ to 50’ = 20 sq. ft. riding sail
4. Hoist Away on Your Backstay.
Make a pendant that attaches to the deck near the backstay. Have your sailmaker make the pendant from wire rope with eyes in each end, or you can use low-stretch line (Dacron, Spectra) as a pendant. Hoist the riding sail with the mainsail halyard about 1/3 of the way up the backstay. This keeps the riding sail out of the way of crew in the cockpit. If your vessel has a split backstay, hoist on one side of the backstay and sheet the sail flat on that side (see picture).
5. Sheet to One Side.
Lead the sheet through a snatch block or Genoa sheet block on one side of your boat. Sheet the sail almost flat and belay (cleat) the sheet. Sheeting the sail flat reduces flogging (the #1 killer of sails), keeps the bow under control, and helps prevent sheering in shifty winds.
Rest Easy with a Riding Sail
Simple over-the-boom design compares surprisingly well in testing.
Even when your anchor is well designed and ideally matched to your boat, there are four common factors that can cause an anchor to drag: poor bottom, short scope, insufficient shock absorption, and yawing. Each of these reduces the holding capacity of the anchor, and they are additive. That is to say that any one of them can ruin your day, solving only one or two of them does not ensure good holding, and the more problems you solve, the better you’ll sleep.
In our ongoing multi-part study of anchoring with all-rope anchor rode, PS technical editor Drew Frye explores various methods to reduce yawing at anchor—a problem that can be exacerbated all-rope rode. Previously, we’ve looked at kellets (see PSMay 2019), which help reduce yawing by adding increasing drag at the bow. As we saw in that report, any efforts that focus on adding drag at the bow generally become ineffective as the wind increases to above 25 knots.
The effects of a boat yawing at anchor can often go unnoticed until it is too late. Constant yawing prevents an anchor from setting deeply, and because the rode tension of a boat sailing vigorously at anchor is typically 50-100 percent greater than one resting quietly, it may cause the anchor to slowly “walk” downwind. Not only does this slow dragging gradually bring your boat closer to hazards astern, it also greatly increases the risk of the anchor tripping, resulting in a sudden failure.
As stronger winds overcome bow drag (chain rode, kellets, etc.), boats that rest quietly in moderate winds can begin to yaw at anchor. About 60 percent of the sailors we interviewed reported yawing 55-65 degrees in strong weather, with some reporting yaw
angles as great as 120 degrees.
You can assess your boat’s tendency to yaw in strong winds by anchoring with all-rope rode in a steady breeze, and recording the range of compass bearings on the lubber line. This is how your boat will behave, even with chain, in a real storm.
PS reviewed the Fin Delta riding sail by Banner Bay Marine (“Riding Sails to Tame those Dancing Boats,” December 2007). This time we compare three designs head-to-head, focusing on yaw angles and rode tension. (See the adjacent article “How We Tested,” for details on the testing.)
What We Tested
We tested three designs: a traditional triangular riding sail, hoisted on the backstay and sheeted to one side at a range of angles; the Fin-Delta from Banner Bay Marine, which forms a Y-shape, promising more efficient control; and an over-the–boom sail of our own design, based on the Paratech Delta Riding Sail.
Observations
A riding sail functions both by pushing the transom back in line when the boat sails to one side, and by increasing windage at the stern, steadying the pull on the rode. Traditional one-dimensional riding sails work by encouraging the boat to rest at a slight angle to the wind. These triangular panels are rigged from the backstay and “sheeted” to a side cleat at a 15- to 20-degree angle to the boat’s centerline. This causes the boat to ride at an angle of about 10 degrees to the wind. The stabilizing force on one tack comes from the sail, and the stabilizing force on the other tack comes from the side of the boat. Because the boat generally lies to one side, the wind load is higher, even when the sail itself is aligned with the wind. Three-dimensional Y- and V-shaped riding sails, including the Fin-Delta and V-Delta, set in alignment with the boat’s centerline, providing a correcting force on either side when the boat yaws, as well as some steadying drag force even when aligned with the wind.
Calculating Force
To calculate wind force on a particular sail we used the formula: Force=drag coefficient x area x 0.0034 x V2. Force is stated in pounds, area is in square feet, and velocity (V) is in knots. The drag coefficient depends on shape. For a hull turned sideways, the drag coefficient will be close to 1 and the area will increase as the boat yaws. The drag coefficient for a sail will vary from very low at small angles of attack, to about 1 for a flat sail that is fully stalled and at a right angle to the wind.
Our test boat has a 700-pound rode tension at 60 knots. Calculations show that the riding sails we tested create an additional 40-60 pounds of drag when aligned with the wind. This 7- to 10-percent increase in drag is insignificant compared to the increased load created by yawing. In our tests, we were unable to measure the sail’s drag because the sail’s net impact was always less than the impact of wind gusts and wave action.
Wind striking a riding sail from the side creates more force, as much as 10-15 percent of the baseline windage. However, because the sail’s center of effort is higher than the hull and located at the stern of the boat, most of the strain is transferred to the keel and rudder, not the anchor rode. Thus, the increase in drag caused by the riding sail at its working angle is many times less than the increased windage of the hull and rig if the boat is allowed to swing freely.
Riding sails must be rigged as far aft as practical. They must be well aft of the keel; a deeply reefed mainsail is of little help. A reefed mizzen sail with a flattening reef will help, but this is not recommended because of added wear and tear. Riding sails must be rigged above the dodgers and bimini tops to remain in clear air. Stern cleats, often recommended for sheeting the riding sail, are sometimes located too far forward or too far inboard to work well.
Before investing in a riding sail, try to eliminate any windage forward of the keel that can contribute to the yawing. A dinghy on the foredeck is a common culprit. You might already have enough canvas aft to serve as a riding sail. That said, a riding sail is more aerodynamically efficient than a blocky dodger/bimini combination.
You can adjust the drag of V- and Y-shaped sails. To adjust drag on the V-shaped Fin Delta, you open or close the “V” by moving the clew position. You can adjust the Delta Riding Sail by opening or closing its inverted “V” or by changing the boom elevation.
We performed our tests at maximum clew spread. We varied the height of the boom when testing the Delta Riding Sail; it did not make a measurable difference, as long as the boom was at least 20 degrees above horizontal and the entire sail was above the cabin structure.
A conventional riding sail is adjusted by changing its angle relative to the lubber line. Typically it is set from the backstay to a midship cleat, but sailors have reported success rigging it to the topping lift and moving the traveler to windward. Do not rig the sail fore-aft, parallel or in line with the boat’s centerline. It will pop annoyingly as the wind moves from one side to the other.
Sizing a Riding Sail
Although bigger is generally better for anchors, we prefer the right size for a riding sail; it is easier to rig, stronger, and has less potential to cause mischief in a violent storm. Smaller riding sails can actually be more effective. You should also consider your needs; a boat with a high freeboard or doghouse will need more sail area, while a more streamlined boat that is relatively stable will need less.
Manufacturers will suggest the appropriate size. Our testing yielded a few rules of thumb that differed slightly from these recommendations, and can also be used:
Single Panel Area (square feet)
• 30-40 percent LOA (feet)
• 3 percent of working sail area (square feet)
V-style Area (square feet, one side only)
• 40-50 percent of LOA (feet)
• 4 percent of working sail area (square feet)
Steadying in Storm Winds
The weakness of anti-yawing strategies at the bow, including chain and kellets, is that they fail when they are needed most, when the wind really howls. A riding sail, on the other hand, works by correcting the aerodynamic balance of the boat, in both light winds and extreme weather. Do they make sense when anchored tropical storm or even hurricane conditions?
Although conventional wisdom is to strip all canvas, field reports indicate riding sails, when properly constructed and rigged, can be beneficial. Our models do not suggest there is an upper limit for their use. If they reduce yawing and reduce peak rode tension at 30 knots, they will do the same at 50 knots or even 100 knots. Balance is balance.
Unlike random bits of canvas, riding sails are small, efficient, and serve a specific purpose that does not change when the wind howls—keep the bow into the wind and provide steady back tension, reducing yawing and surging.
Are they strong enough? Conventional riding sails are clearly NOT suitable for storms. Our observations suggest they will be subject to flogging in winds over 40 knots because the leading edge is free flying. The flogging forces on the backstay can be severe.
The Fin Delta, on the other hand, has been proven in tropical storm conditions at moorings. The Fin Delta is not supported by the backstay and can be reinforced with multiple halyards. Because it sets high, it could increase heeling, something to consider if you are near other boats.
Fully supported by the boom, the Delta Riding Sail was designed with hurricane forces in mind. Its small size and low location contribute little to heel or drag, with a force that is as much downwards as to the side. The boom can be supported with multiple halyards or fixed in gallows and the sail should be built like a storm jib, using heavy cloth, triple stitching, and extra support tapes.
Dyneema sheets are a good idea, because they reduce movement and hence chafe, which is the enemy. The calculated sheet loads for the Delta Riding Sail at 60 knots and even at 100 knots are lower than those of a working jib. As for material, 8-ounce polyester cloth should be sufficient for riding sails up to about 20 square feet, adjusting upwards from there.
DIY Conventional Riding Sail
Our triangular test sail measured roughly 4 x 6 x 6 feet, about 12 square feet. It added no measurable windage and significantly reduced yawing. The opposite “leeward” side of the sail occasionally caught the wind, causing a distinct “popping” sound that convinced us that this sail will flog excessively in a storm.
Bottom Line: A conventional riding sail may be enough on some boats, but it is not our favorite.
Sailrite Kit (small 90011a)
Measuring about 12.5 square feet, this sail is similar to the DIY version. We expect minimal added windage and significantly reduced yawing. Instead of polyester sailcloth, it is made from UV resistant Top Gun acrylic, which will stretch more but last much longer in the sun.
Bottom Line: The kit is a good value, especially if you are handy with a sewing machine.
Banner Bay Marine Fin Delta
Banner Bay’s V-style riding sail has been evaluated through a NASA grant and proven in tropical storm conditions. The unique Y-design provides good stability and delivers the best correction performance.
Although the leading edge is unsupported, triangular bracing is provided by the Y sections aft, improving stability in strong winds. Although there are more lines to tweak than other riding sails, once pre-set, it takes only a few moments to set and tension. It should be easy to rig above a bimini top.
Bottom Line: We rated this Best Choice in 2007 and we see no reason to change this recommendation.
Delta Riding Sail
The Delta riding sail was developed by Paratech Engineering, maker of the Delta Drogue and parachute sea anchors, but it was never marketed. It is illustrated in their parachute sea anchor instruction manual and we interviewed the inventor about its history. We designed our own Delta sail by stretching cord to the suggested shape (see adjacent article, “Another Option: Making Your Own Riding Sail”).
The sail is laid over the boom, attached close to the aft end of the boom and pulled tight to the mast end. The clews are then attached to stern cleats, and the boom raised to a 20-40 degree angle using the topping lift, and reinforced by a halyard (in strong winds these are winched bar-tight to provide sheet tension). We liked that the sail could be rigged before lifting the boom to add tension.
We liked that it set quite low, minimizing heeling force if the wind came from the side. Support from the boom greatly reduces cloth stress making it very durable and stable. We also liked that it provided some cockpit protection from UV and weather, beneficial both at anchor and on a mooring.
If you carry a parachute sea anchor, we think you should carry one of these. The greatest drawback may be difficulty in rigging over a bimini, although in a strong storm, the bimini should be lowered.
Bottom Line: The simple design, ease of rigging, and effectiveness makes it our Recommended sail for storms.
Delta sail (with a SEA Anchor)
Paratech Engineering developed the Delta riding Sail to help monohull sailboats to ride more quietly to a sea anchor. In addition to the windage/foil imbalance that causes a boat to sail at anchor, boats riding to a sea anchor are moving backwards at about 0.5-1 knot.
Some of this force is neutralized by very strong winds, but there is still a strong tendency for boats to lie to one side, sometimes alternating back and forth. One recommended solution is to stabilize the boat to one side with a bridle, as described in the book “Storm Tactics” by Lin and Larry Pardey. Sea anchor maker Fiorentino has further refined the technique.
Another approach is to use a larger parachute and really stop the boat. This works better for multihulls, since they are stable on a bridle and not stable or comfortable when hove to. However, during the lulls after a wave passes, the rode will recoil and try to pull the boat forward, depending on the conditions. There can be near-slack moments when the bow can fall off, resulting in yawing and increased force. Slack in the rode increases fatigue, and this can be catastrophic if the boat is spun beam-to the sea. The sea anchor rode should have as little slack as possible.
Bottom line: A properly sized and ruggedly-built V-riding sail will help keep the boat on a sea anchor bow-to in a storm—either at anchor or while using a sea anchor. Additionally, the riding sail will provide a little pull astern, steadying the boat by reducing slack. If you are considering a sea anchor, a V-style riding sail should be part of your kit.
Conclusions
A conventional riding sail will reduce mild yawing, but its effectiveness is limited and we’d not use it in storm force winds. It’s 19th century technology.
The Fin Delta provides maximum yaw control in a stable, quiet package. The Delta Riding Sail is slightly less efficient in yawing reduction and may not work with a large bimini, but it has bullet-proof durability and simplicity on its side.
We see two applications. If you anchor with rope rode, or if your boat won’t stay bow to the wind, these will settle your boat down, even in a moderate blow. We also think riding sails can be a useful aid in storm conditions, where holding the anchor steady is enormously important.
Comments (3)
This article discusses 4 options, Banner Bay Marine Fin Delta, ParaTech Delta Sail, the Sailrite kit, and a DIY conventional riding sail.
Why doesn't the article include images of those 4? Straightforward logic, not hard to do (is it?), and images are part and parcel. t'would be useful information i think.
Geoff Ferrell
Posted by: SV Callae Jane | August 3, 2019 9:28 AM
I found the "missing" article in the downloadable PDF version of the magazine.
Posted by: 99expy | July 21, 2019 3:11 PM
Uh... Neither I nor Uncle Google can find the "Another Option: Making Your Own Riding Sail" article. Is this forth-coming?
Posted by: Port Noir's Complaint | July 20, 2019 7:08 PM
Easy keto pizza pockets using mozzarella dough. Almond flour mozzarella dough is a game changer. If you only ever try one low-carb recipe, this is it. See the conversion below to see how to make these using almond flour or coconut flour.
Prep Time: 10 mins Cook Time: 5 mins Total Time: 15 mins
Servings: 4 pizza pockets
Total Carbs: 6.2g Fibre: 2.3g Author: Libby Jenkinson
Ingredients
Mozzarella Dough
170gpre shredded/grated cheesemozzarella
85galmond meal/flour
2tbspcream cheesefull fat
1eggmedium
pinchsaltto taste
Pizza Pocket Filling Ideas
pre shredded/grated cheese
tomato paste
pepperonislices
pepperssliced
mushroomssliced
Instructions
Mix the shredded/grated cheese and almond flour/meal in a microwaveable bowl. Add the cream cheese. Microwave on HIGH for 1 minute.
Stir then microwave on HIGH for another 30 seconds.
Add the egg, salt and mix gently.
Roll the keto cheese dough between 2 pieces of baking parchment/paper. Do not roll as thin as a thin pizza crust. It needs to be a little thicker so it is sturdy and will hold the pizza filings. See photos in this post.
Remove the top baking paper/parchment. Cut the dough into squares the same size as your toasted sandwich maker.
Place one square on the bottom of the sandwich maker, add your choice of fillings, place another square of dough on the top, press the lid of the sandwich maker down and cook for 3-5 minutes until golden.
Notes
Nutrition panel only shows the mozzarella dough for 1 pizza pocket. This recipe makes 4 pizza pockets. Fillings are varied and additional. You may choose as much or as little pizza filling as you like. Mozzarella dough can also be made by replacing the almond meal/flour with 1/4 cup (4 tbsp) coconut flour. No sandwich toaster? No problem. Simply cut 8 large squares of keto cheese dough, add your chosen fillings in the centre or 4 of the squares. Place the remaining 4 keto dough squares on top, pinch the edges together and place on a lined baking tray and cook at 220C/425F for 12-15 minutes, or until golden.
the goal of simple, reliable, and able to run on solar, and I decided on the Spectra Ventura 200T. I looked hard at the schenker Zen 30, and it's slightly lighter, but was concerned about reliability and parts accessibility.
Ryan and Sophie sailing on episode 13 talked about water maker (seawater pro). DIY water maker. 12 volt motor with brass pump and single membrane.
MOLD PREVENTION SOLUTION:
Mix:
1 tsp borax
1 tsp trisodium phosphate
1 tsp bicarbonate soda
1 liter of water
Wipe down surfaces on a boat as needed
OUTBOARD ENGINE:
4 stroke engine more fuel efficient.
Never buy mercury outboard
Clark likes the new fuel injected (not carburetor) outboards from Suzuki for example
A DIE-A-Betic POEM
Die-a-Betic
Terror
Trimble
Titillation
Titreşim
Aware
Ecstasy
Relief
Euphoria
Shame
Out
IMAM BAYILDI:
Turkish Eggplant Casserole with Tomatoes (Imam Bayildi)
This Turkish eggplant recipe "Imam Bayildi" is a perfect vegetarian weeknight dinner. It's great for making ahead of time, as the flavors only get better. Inspired by The Greek Vegetarian.
Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings 6
Ingredients
2 medium eggplant (or 4 small Italian eggplant), about 1 3/4 pound, thinly sliced 1/4 inch thick lengthwise
Lightly salt the eggplant slices and allow to stand for 20 minutes. Pat the slices dry and set aside.
Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a large oven proof (preferably cast iron) skillet. Pan fry the eggplant in batches over medium-high heat until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Add more oil as necessary between batches so the eggplant doesn't burn, but try not to have too heavy a hand - the pan just needs to be greased. Remove the eggplant to a plate.
Add the onion to the skillet and saute over medium heat until soft, 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chili flakes, 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and cinnamon. Cook for one minute more, until fragrant. Carefully pour in the tomatoes and simmer until thickened slightly, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in half the parsley.
If using an ovenproof skillet, remove 3/4 of the sauce to a bowl, leaving a thin layer behind. Otherwise, add 1/4 cup of sauce to the bottom of a 8x8 or comparable casserole dish. Arrange one layer of eggplant evenly in the bottom of the skillet or dish. Slather with a layer of sauce, and repeat with the remaining eggplant and sauce - like you would a lasagna.
Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, until the eggplant is very soft and the sauce has reduced. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before cutting into it. Garnish with the remaining parsley and serve warm or at room temperature.
Recipe Notes
I streamlined this recipe by using an oven proof skillet to fry the eggplant, cook the sauce, and then make the casserole. If you don't have a cast iron skillet, feel free to use a casserole dish instead.
Kombucha
BOAT ELECTRIC:
Generally it is recommended that for marine applications the solar panels be a installed as series. If panels voltage to high connect as two panels in series only. High voltage is dangerous. A controller per panel. Panels need to have diodes to make sure if there is any shading the whole panel does not go down. Circuit breaker should be right by the battery. All charging sources must be connected directly to the battery without an on/off switch, not to the panel. An mmpt controller should output same voltage as the battery system of your boat; either 12volt or 24volt.
SUGAR FREE GUMMY BEARS:
Sugar-Free Gummies & Worms
Healthy sugar-free gummies, teddies and worms. A great fun activity with your children.
Prep Time: 20 mins Total Time: 20 mins
Ingredients
Ingredients required for each flavour tea you choose to use
2-3fruit tea bags
250mlhot water
3tbspgelatine powder
2tbspgranulated sweetener, of choiceor more, to taste
Instructions
For each fruit tea flavour
In a heatproof dish or mug, add the fruit tea bags and 250ml (1 cup) hot water. Leave to brew until a very strong flavour develops.
Remove the fruit tea bags, and whilst still hot, add the gelatine and sweetener. Stir to dissolve.
Add food colouring (optional). Repeat the recipe for the next flavour fruit tea.
Pouring the moulds
Gently fill the droppers (as instructed above) and begin to fill the gummy bear and worm moulds.
Place in the fridge until set. This takes about an hour, but the longer you leave them, the more solid and sturdy they will become.
SOURDOUGH BREAD:
I love sourdough bread. In fact, it was what I missed most when I gave up grains and sugar, and started following a healthy keto & paleo diet. Making good sourdough bread has been one of the biggest challenges I've faced when adapting traditional all-time favourites so they can be eaten on a ketogenic diet. It took some fine-tuning but I finally got the recipe I wanted.
This bread is not the first sourdough recipe I've created - there is asimilar recipe in the KetoDiet appand alsoin my upcoming cookbook.Both use sightly different ingredients and a different cooking technique. Unlike the traditional sourdough bread, this one doesn't require several days of culturing - it takes just over an hour. To recreate the typical taste of a sourdough bread, I used vinegar and buttermilk. Also, because I used vinegar, I omitted cream of tartar which I use in most of my baked recipes. As I mentioned before, vinegar is a good alternative to cream of tartar when makinggluten-free baking powder.
Compared to my otherketo bread recipes,I used slightly different temperature and cooking time because these baguettes seemed to be more prone to burning - maybe due to the buttermilk.
Tips & Similar Recipes:
For more tips on how to make the perfect low-carb loaf, have a look at this post(troubleshooting at the end of the post).
This dough is based on the these Keto Buns(without the garlic powder, onion powder, sesame seeds and cream of tartar)
If you don't want to use coconut flour:Although I haven't tried it, I'd use twice the amount of almond flour or flaxmeal instead of coconut flour (1 cup of almond flour / flaxmeal instead of 1/2 cup coconut flour). Or you can use the same amount but reduce the water by ~ 1/2 cup.
Hands-on
10-15 minutes
Overall
60-75 minutes
Nutritional values (per 1 regular baguette)
Total Carbs
14.1
grams
Fiber
9.6
grams
Net Carbs
4.5
grams
Protein
12.2
grams
Fat
16.4
grams
of which Saturated
2.7
grams
Calories
232
kcal
Magnesium
100
mg (25%)
Potassium
359
mg (18%)
Macronutrient ratio: Calories from carbs (8%), protein (23%), fat (69%)
Ingredients (makes 8 regular baguettes or 16 mini baguettes)
3/4 cup low-fat buttermilk (180 g/ 6.5 oz) - full-fat would make them too heavy and they may not rise
1/4 cup white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar (60 ml/ 2 fl oz)
1 cup lukewarm water (240 ml / 8 fl oz)
Tips:
Lukewarm water in this recipe will slow down the raising effect ofbaking soda. I tried both boiling water and lukewarm and although it made no difference for baguettes, some people have been experiencing air bubbles / hollow insides when making a loaf. More tips on the perfect loafare listed here.
Make sure you use akitchen scalefor measuring all the dry ingredients. Using just cups may not be enough to achieve best results, especially in baked goods. Weights per cups and tablespoons may vary depending on the product/ brand or if you make you own ingredients (likeflaxmealfromflaxseeds). Psyllium absorbs lots of water. When baking with psyllium, you must remember to drink enough water throughout the day to prevent constipation!
I love sourdough bread. In fact, it was what I missed most when I gave up grains and sugar, and started following a healthy keto & paleo diet. Making good sourdough bread has been one of the biggest challenges I've faced when adapting traditional all-time favourites so they can be eaten on a ketogenic diet. It took some fine-tuning but I finally got the recipe I wanted.
This bread is not the first sourdough recipe I've created - there is asimilar recipe in the KetoDiet appand alsoin my upcoming cookbook.Both use sightly different ingredients and a different cooking technique. Unlike the traditional sourdough bread, this one doesn't require several days of culturing - it takes just over an hour. To recreate the typical taste of a sourdough bread, I used vinegar and buttermilk. Also, because I used vinegar, I omitted cream of tartar which I use in most of my baked recipes. As I mentioned before, vinegar is a good alternative to cream of tartar when makinggluten-free baking powder.
Compared to my otherketo bread recipes,I used slightly different temperature and cooking time because these baguettes seemed to be more prone to burning - maybe due to the buttermilk.
Tips & Similar Recipes:
For more tips on how to make the perfect low-carb loaf, have a look at this post(troubleshooting at the end of the post).
This dough is based on the these Keto Buns(without the garlic powder, onion powder, sesame seeds and cream of tartar)
If you don't want to use coconut flour:Although I haven't tried it, I'd use twice the amount of almond flour or flaxmeal instead of coconut flour (1 cup of almond flour / flaxmeal instead of 1/2 cup coconut flour). Or you can use the same amount but reduce the water by ~ 1/2 cup.
Hands-on
10-15 minutes
Overall
60-75 minutes
Nutritional values (per 1 regular baguette)
Total Carbs
14.1
grams
Fiber
9.6
grams
Net Carbs
4.5
grams
Protein
12.2
grams
Fat
16.4
grams
of which Saturated
2.7
grams
Calories
232
kcal
Magnesium
100
mg (25%)
Potassium
359
mg (18%)
Macronutrient ratio: Calories from carbs (8%), protein (23%), fat (69%)
Ingredients (makes 8 regular baguettes or 16 mini baguettes)
3/4 cup low-fat buttermilk (180 g/ 6.5 oz) - full-fat would make them too heavy and they may not rise
1/4 cup white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar (60 ml/ 2 fl oz)
1 cup lukewarm water (240 ml / 8 fl oz)
Tips:
Lukewarm water in this recipe will slow down the raising effect ofbaking soda. I tried both boiling water and lukewarm and although it made no difference for baguettes, some people have been experiencing air bubbles / hollow insides when making a loaf. More tips on the perfect loafare listed here.
Make sure you use akitchen scalefor measuring all the dry ingredients. Using just cups may not be enough to achieve best results, especially in baked goods. Weights per cups and tablespoons may vary depending on the product/ brand or if you make you own ingredients (likeflaxmealfromflaxseeds). Psyllium absorbs lots of water. When baking with psyllium, you must remember to drink enough water throughout the day to prevent constipation!
INSTRuctions
Preheat the oven to 180 °C/ 360 °F (fan assisted). Use a kitchen scale to measure all the ingredients carefully. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl (almond flour, coconut flour, ground flaxseed, psyllium powder, baking soda, and salt).
Do not use whole psyllium husks - if you cannot find psyllium husk powder, use a blender or coffee grinder and process until fine. If you get already prepared psyllium husk powder, remember to weigh it before adding to the recipe. I used whole psyllium husks which I grinded myself. Do not use just measure cups - different products have different weights per cup!
In a separate bowl, mix the eggs, egg whites and buttermilk.
The reason you shouldn't use only whole eggs is that the bread wouldn't rise with so many egg yolks in. Don't waste them - use them for makingHomemade Mayo,Easy Hollandaise SauceorLemon Curd. For the same reason, use low-fat (not full-fat) buttermilk.
Add the egg mixture and process well using a mixer until the dough is thick. Add vinegar and lukewarm water and process until well combined.
Do not over-process the dough. Using a spoon, make 8 regular or 16 mini baguettes and place them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper or a non-stick mat. They will rise, so make sure to leave some space between them. Optionally, score the baguettes diagonally and make 3-4 cuts.
Place in the oven and cook for 10 minutes. Then, reduce the temperature to 150 °C/ 300 °F and bake for another 30-45 minutes (small baguettes will take less time to cook).
Remove from the oven, let the tray cool down and place the baguettes on a rack to cool down to room temperature. Store them at room temperature if you plan to use them in the next couple of days or store in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Baked goods that use psyllium always result is slightly moist texture. If needed, cut the baguettes in half and place in a toaster or in the oven before serving.
Enjoy just like regular baguettes!
Tip: To save time, mix all the dry ingredients ahead and store in a zip-lock bag and add a label with the number of servings. When ready to be baked, just add the wet ingredients!
I changed the way I ate in 2011, when I was diagnosed with Hashimoto’s, an autoimmune disease that affects the thyroid. I had no energy, and I found it more and more difficult to maintain a healthy weight.
That’s when I decided to quit sugar, grains, and processed foods, and to start following a whole-foods-based ketogenic approach to food.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C/ 360 °F (fan assisted). Use a kitchen scale to measure all the ingredients carefully. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl (almond flour, coconut flour, ground flaxseed, psyllium powder, baking soda, and salt).
Do not use whole psyllium husks - if you cannot find psyllium husk powder, use a blender or coffee grinder and process until fine. If you get already prepared psyllium husk powder, remember to weigh it before adding to the recipe. I used whole psyllium husks which I grinded myself. Do not use just measure cups - different products have different weights per cup!
In a separate bowl, mix the eggs, egg whites and buttermilk.
The reason you shouldn't use only whole eggs is that the bread wouldn't rise with so many egg yolks in. Don't waste them - use them for makingHomemade Mayo,Easy Hollandaise SauceorLemon Curd. For the same reason, use low-fat (not full-fat) buttermilk.
Add the egg mixture and process well using a mixer until the dough is thick. Add vinegar and lukewarm water and process until well combined.
Do not over-process the dough. Using a spoon, make 8 regular or 16 mini baguettes and place them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper or a non-stick mat. They will rise, so make sure to leave some space between them. Optionally, score the baguettes diagonally and make 3-4 cuts.
Place in the oven and cook for 10 minutes. Then, reduce the temperature to 150 °C/ 300 °F and bake for another 30-45 minutes (small baguettes will take less time to cook).
Remove from the oven, let the tray cool down and place the baguettes on a rack to cool down to room temperature. Store them at room temperature if you plan to use them in the next couple of days or store in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Baked goods that use psyllium always result is slightly moist texture. If needed, cut the baguettes in half and place in a toaster or in the oven before serving.
Enjoy just like regular baguettes!
Tip: To save time, mix all the dry ingredients ahead and store in a zip-lock bag and add a label with the number of servings. When ready to be baked, just add the wet ingredients!
While preheating the oven at 350°F, start combining the dry ingredients in a bowl.
Boil the cup of water and pour this into the bowl. Mix in the egg whites and vinegar as well. Beat the ingredients together with a hand mixer for around 30 seconds. Avoid overmixing. The outcome should have a Play Doh-like consistency.
Moisten your hands and shape the dough into 4-8 pieces. You can mold them into hamburger or hot dog buns, depending on your preference. Lay the formed dough on a baking sheet greased with oil.
Place the sheet on the lower rack of the oven and bake for 50-60 minutes. Time depends on the size of the bread you made. Check if done by tapping the base of the bun. If you hear a hollow sound, remove them from the oven.
Serve together with some butter or your favorite toppings. Keep them in the fridge or freezer.
watch will keep a constant lookout for shipping, whales, flotsam (logs,
containers etc.) or any object that may endanger the vessel and inform the
Captain or Mate of such sightings.
When
in doubt about any situation, regardless of the time of day or night, inform
the Captain or Mate.
The Captain will be informed
any time the weather or sea conditions change from within parameters set by the
Captain.
Every effort will be made to
be courteous to any off-watch crew members that may be sleeping by keeping the
vessel as quiet as possible.
The watch will make an inspection about the deck and rigging at the
beginning of each watch to check that gear, lines and lashings are secure and
free of chafe.
The watch will make a walk
through inspection below decks at least once each hour to check for any
threatening conditions such as, fire,
fumes, or flooding.
The watch will remain on
deck as much as possible, particularly at night, coming below only for
necessities.
All watch standers will
remain awake for the duration of their watch.
Sleep while on watch endangers yourself and your shipmates. If you are unable to stay awake, notify the
Captain.
Each watch will maintain the ship's log.
No one shall make any
changes in the vessel's course, except in
an emergency maneuver, without informing the Captain or Mate.
By International law, every vessel at sea is responsible for having someone “On Watch” around the
clock and it is critical to every vessels safety and by extension the safety of
every vessel in proximity to another. It is those standing watch who provides early warning of developing situations
with other vessels, the weather and sea conditions and problems or situations onboard so they can be corrected in time
to prevent a possible life-threatening situation.
Having “the Watch”, being the person(s) responsible for
keeping everyone safe is more than just sitting in the cockpit listening to music, watching a video or having a conversation with a watch mate. Staying awake on watch, especially at night, can be
difficult. Sitting in a comfortable spot
with a comfortable motion it is easy to be lulled into sleep. To prevent nodding off, don’t sit in one place, get up, move around, disengage the auto-pilot and hand steer. Keep yourself occupied!
Having “the Watch” means that everyone else onboard not on
watch and, in some respects, your fellow crewmembers also on watch, are counting on you
to keep them safe. Knowing those on watch are awake and alert allows those off
watch to relax, sleep, eat and recharge for their watch in just a few short hours.
The vessels Captain has the responsibility
to see that a watch is maintained around the clock. The length of a “watch” will vary from vessel
to vessel depending on conditions, the number of crew available and the length of the voyage.
Generally, watches run anywhere from 2-4hours, sometimes
rotating at some point in the day so no one stands
watch during the same time period in any given day. Watch’s longer than 4 hours
are difficult, especially at night so are rare and if possible, should be
avoided. Having said that, on passages
with a shorthanded crew standing a daytime 6-hour watch allows the off watch a very decent rest period.
Over the years I have tried many different watch schedules,
2-hour, 3-hour, 4-hour and various types of rotating watch schedules. Onboard Malaya, with a 2-person crew, I have
found that other than when it is cold and wet the traditional military 4-hour
system works best. This system has
continuous 4-hour watch’s except between 1600-2000 hours (4-8pm) when the 4-hour
period is divided into two 2-hour periods called the first and second dog
watch. This allows the watch schedule to
rotate so no one stands the same 4 hours on and off day in and day out. At night 4 hours off allows for a more meaningful rest period for the off-watch than a 2 or 3-hour rotation does.
The only other concession to make in a watch schedule depends on the number of people in the crew. With a 2-man crew it is, watch on/watch off, meals and personal hygiene, as well as evolutions that require more than one person on deck, will eat away at everyone’s off-watch time. Thus, care must be taken to see everyone remains rested.
With a three man or larger crew, it is easy to rotate one person out of the watch each day for rest, though with 4-man or smaller crews the crewmember out of the rotation still has to be available for on deck evolutions that might require their help.
When a crew grows to 4 or more, I as captain take myself out of the formal watch schedule but am available anytime to anyone on watch that needs another hand on deck. This allows those off-watch to remain in their berths resting for their watch.
Another advantage to larger crews is someone can be detailed each day to be chief cook and bottle washer, responsible for preparing meals and cleaning up afterward.
While standing watch may seem a simple task many aspects of it do need to be taught to new crewmembers.
Usually, I post a list called “General Orders for Standing Watch” for everyone to read and to basically remind them of the responsibilities they have to their fellow crewmembers safety as well as their own. Before setting out on any passage I go over
this list with the whole crew so they and I know exactly what is expected of them. (General Orders for Standing Watch can be found at the end of this article)
My list of General Orders for Standing Watch is just a list
of the items I want the watch to pay attention to. Standing Watch is an acquired skill, rarely is it taught in sailing or boating courses so it is each Captain's responsibility to make sure those standing watch know what is expected of them.
Most crewmembers I’ve had aboard on their first passages had no idea that Standing Watch involved more than just looking out for ships and floating hazards.
Watch Standers must also keep an eye on how well things are functioning aboard their own vessel.
Taking a turn below every hour and just listening is critical. I have been woken up to be told the watch keeps hearing a pump turn on and gotten up to find that a cracked fresh water line is leaking our fresh water into the bilge. Informed in time I was able to shut off the valve to the line and save half our fresh water supply. I have also
had the watch go below and smell smoke and found the battery isolator melting and the bulkhead around it charring close to an all-out fire.
If the person standing watch hadn’t taken a turn below every hour these problems wouldn’t have been discovered and the consequences could have been dire.
Another couple of reasons to have the watch go below and move quietly through the boat is it reassures those off-watch someone is up and about looking out for their welfare. It is also nice when the watch comes below and quietly listens for a few moments, hears a constant clunk in some locker and quietly stuffs a dish towel in the locker to stop rattling cans that are disturbing those resting.
I also like to have those standing watch to take a turn about the deck at least once a watch to check for any problems. Over the years my own turns about the deck, both day and night, have found rigging parts laying on the deck, lines chafing, loose anchors banging away in their rollers, loose gear or lines that are waiting for the right roll or a rouge
wave to wash it overboard. All are problems that can be easily corrected if found early.
Before each passage begins I also tell the crew, that as Captain I am to be called, anytime they have a question, that is anytime, day or night, whether I have been sleeping for 1 minute or several hours, I am available anytime without question!
As the person ultimately responsible for the vessels safety, you as Captain can never give the impression that being called on deck at any time is a problem! I also never question a watch standers decision to put in a reef or if the wind goes light to shake one out. I never question the watch’s decision to alter course until I know why. Maybe they are doing so to avoid a hazard they have spotted or need to avoid a ship and calling me and waiting for me to climb out of a berth and come on deck may take too long resulting in us colliding with some object or getting run over by a ship.
Personally, I want my crews to learn and know as much as possible. I want my crews to feel comfortable taking action on their own, to put in a reef, to alter course to avoid danger, to disengage the autopilot and hand steer. I may still come on deck to see what is going on but never to berate a crew for taking action they thought necessary. To do so means that some dark and stormy night they may avoid or delay calling me until it is too late.
I also have standing orders that at night I am to be called anytime the watch see the lights of a ship. I do this until I am comfortable with each person's ability to identify and decipher just what any lights they see mean. Too often I have had
inexperienced crew think they know what lights mean only to end up having a very close call with a ship. Better I be disturbed and have to come on deck once in a while then be run down!
When called on deck for lights I always use it as a teaching opportunity by asking those on watch what the lights they are seeing mean and what course of action, if any, they should take. Coming on deck, seeing the lights
and then just telling the watch to alter or hold course doesn’t teach anyone anything!
On vessels where only one person is on watch at a time, particularly night watches. I insist the watch
write in the log at least once an hour, in rough
conditions I may change this to every 30 minutes. I don’t insist anything formal be written, I
just want to see a time and a statement that all is well. This way should the lone watch stander go
missing I have an idea of how long ago they went overboard and thus have an
idea of how far back I have to go to find them.
With today's technology and crew wearing devices that can alert us when
they do go overboard having people still writing in the log just so I know they
are on board may seem redundant but since I have a healthy mistrust of all
things electronic I will continue to have crew write in the log, at least oncean hour!
As the time for your watch to end approaches it is important
that you wake the off-watch in a timely manner so they can prepare for their
time on deck. Most of the time giving
someone 15 minutes to wake up, get dressed and get a snack and a drink is
enough. If those going off watch are
really on the ball they will have prepared hot water for the on-coming watch to have a cup of tea, coco,
or coffee. Those going off-watch should
also inform the new watch of conditions on deck so they can dress properly
before sticking their head out of the hatch, especially when there is a lot of water in the air, be it rain or spray.
For those going on watch proper watch-standing starts with you dressing properly for the expected
conditions. If you are not dressed properly you are either going to have to leave your watch station to redress or
you are going to spend your watch uncomfortably cold and/or wet. Consequently, you are not going to pay as much attention to your duties as you would if you were comfortable.
When coming on deck for your watch, especially at night, it is imperative you clip into a hard point or jack line before coming out of the companionway. Chances are you are not yet fully awake and are likely to have something in your hands like a book, your headphones, a tablet or a hot drink and a quick roll of the boat can easily send you flying overboard. So clip in!
At the change of the watch, it is the responsibility of those going off-watch to inform crewmembers coming on-watch
what has been happening with the weather, what the ship's course is, any problems to keep an eye on, any orders the Captain
may have given concerning weather, sail changes, course changes and so on. This exchange of information doesn’t need to
be done in any formal manner but It is critical that it takes place every time the watch changes.
As I said before, standing watch is critical to a vessels safety.
Early on in a passage when people have yet to acclimatize to the rhythm of the ships motion, when they haven’t adjusted
their sleep cycle to the demands of a watch schedule, crew coming on watch, especially at night are going to be tired. Staying occupied and not sitting down will help them stay alert, especially if they are on watch alone.
Generally, it takes several days or more for people to adjust to the rhythm of a passage. Thus short passages of less than 3 or 4 days are the most difficult when it comes to everyone getting sufficient rest. After 3 or 4 days most people will adjust and find themselves falling asleep quicker when they come off watch and sleep more soundly as the sounds and motion of a boat at sea become part of their normal background noise.
Usually, Keely and I don’t have much trouble staying awake at night and many a night we each look forward to our alone time on watch. Sitting in the cockpit watching the phosphorescent lights in the waves while listening to an audiobook or clipping onto the Jack Line, leaving the cockpit and sitting on the windward deck, leaning back against the dinghy under the boom and looking into the heavens, seeing millions of stars, identifying the constellations,
watching meteors flashing by, or the play of moonbeams on the water or laying on the foredeck watching phosphorescent outlined dolphins playing in the bow wave can make a night watch fly by, sometimes so peacefully you don’t want it to end.
Like everything else to do with sailing, Standing Watch is another skill that once learned and mastered can be an enjoyable endeavor whether stood in full daylight or in the depth of night and like every other sailing skill can only be learned through time on the water!
General Orders for Keeping Watch
The
watch will keep a constant lookout for shipping, whales, flotsam (logs,
containers etc.) or any object that may endanger the vessel and inform the
Captain or Mate of such sightings.
When
in doubt about any situation, regardless of the time of day or night, inform
the Captain or Mate.
The Captain will be informed
any time the weather or sea conditions change from within parameters set by the
Captain.
Every effort will be made to
be courteous to any off-watch crew members that may be sleeping by keeping the
vessel as quiet as possible.
The watch will make an inspection about the deck and rigging at the
beginning of each watch to check that gear, lines and lashings are secure and
free of chafe.
The watch will make a walk
through inspection below decks at least once each hour to check for any
threatening conditions such as, fire,
fumes, or flooding.
The watch will remain on
deck as much as possible, particularly at night, coming below only for
necessities.
All watch standers will
remain awake for the duration of their watch.
Sleep while on watch endangers yourself and your shipmates. If you are unable to stay awake, notify the
Captain.
Each watch will maintain the ship's log.
No one shall make any
changes in the vessel's course, except in
an emergency maneuver, without informing the Captain or Mate.
Turkish Flat Breads with potato and cheese; Patatesli Gozleme
We Turks love these stuffed flat breads, Gozleme. Turks have been making these stuffed flat breads over thousand of years, they are a much loved Turkish street food and a special part of Turkish breakfast. The mashed potato, cheese and parsley proves to be a delicious, comforting filling; these gozlemes are wonderful with cup of tea or as part of mezze spread.
Author: Ozlem Warren
Recipe type: Turkish Flat breads with fillings, Gozleme
3 medium sized potato, cooked, skinned and mashed – about 2 ¼ cups -
5ml/1 teaspoon Turkish red pepper flakes or 2 tsp. Turkish red pepper paste (optional)
200gr/ 7 oz. Turkish white cheese or feta cheese, juice drained and crumbled.
28 gr/ 1 oz. / ½ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
30 ml/2 tbsp. olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Nonstick pan or griddle to cook the Gozleme
Instructions
Combine about 150 ml / 5 fl. oz. warm water, yeast and salt in a small bowl, stir and cover. Stand in a warm place for 5 minutes or until bubbles form on the surface.
Sift the flour into a large bowl. Make a well in the middle and pour in the yeast mixture, olive oil, yoghurt and the remaining (about 110 ml/ 4 fl. oz./ ½ cup) water. Using your hand, draw in the flour from the sides and work the mixture into a dough. Knead thoroughly to form a soft dough. Divide the dough into 8 pieces, knead them and roll into balls. Place the balls on a floured surface, cover with a damp cloth and leave them to rest for 30 minutes, or until the dough doubles in size.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Mash the cooked potatoes with a fork or a masher in a large bowl. Drain the juice of the Turkish white cheese or feta cheese and crumble into the bowl. Stir in the chopped parsley, the red pepper paste or red pepper flakes (if you wish) and pour in the olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and combine all well. Your filling is ready.
On a lightly floured surface, roll out each of the balls of the dough with a rolling pin into thin, flat rounds, about 40cm/16in diameter. Sprinkle a little flour as you roll the dough so that the dough won’t stick. Roll until you achieve a thin sheet of a flat round.
Fold the left and right sides of the dough in a way for the edges to meet in the middle. Spread about 2 ½ - 3 tablespoons filling into the middle part of this flat sheet. Then fold the top and bottom edges over the filling, making sure all the filling is safely covered. Press edges together well to seal. Repeat the same procedure for the rest of the dough balls.
Heat a griddle or a non-stick pan, and brush one side of the gozleme with a little olive oil and place on the pan to cook for about 2 -3 minutes, or until golden brown. Brush the uncooked side with a little olive oil and then flip it over. Cook for another 2-3 minutes, until golden brown.
Brush both cooked sides of gozleme with a little olive oil -this will keep the gozleme moist. Cook the rest of the gozlemes the same way.
You can either roll the Gozlemes to serve, or you can cut in halves or quarters. Ayran, Turkish yoghurt drink or Turkish tea, cay would go really well next to Gozleme.
Turkish Eggplant Casserole with Tomatoes (Imam Bayildi)
This Turkish eggplant recipe "Imam Bayildi" is a perfect vegetarian weeknight dinner. It's great for making ahead of time, as the flavors only get better. Inspired by The Greek Vegetarian.
Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Total Time 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings 6
Ingredients
2 medium eggplant (or 4 small Italian eggplant), about 1 3/4 pound, thinly sliced 1/4 inch thick lengthwise
Lightly salt the eggplant slices and allow to stand for 20 minutes. Pat the slices dry and set aside.
Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a large oven proof (preferably cast iron) skillet. Pan fry the eggplant in batches over medium-high heat until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Add more oil as necessary between batches so the eggplant doesn't burn, but try not to have too heavy a hand - the pan just needs to be greased. Remove the eggplant to a plate.
Add the onion to the skillet and saute over medium heat until soft, 5 minutes. Add the garlic, chili flakes, 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and cinnamon. Cook for one minute more, until fragrant. Carefully pour in the tomatoes and simmer until thickened slightly, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in half the parsley.
If using an ovenproof skillet, remove 3/4 of the sauce to a bowl, leaving a thin layer behind. Otherwise, add 1/4 cup of sauce to the bottom of a 8x8 or comparable casserole dish. Arrange one layer of eggplant evenly in the bottom of the skillet or dish. Slather with a layer of sauce, and repeat with the remaining eggplant and sauce - like you would a lasagna.
Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, until the eggplant is very soft and the sauce has reduced. Allow to sit for 10 minutes before cutting into it. Garnish with the remaining parsley and serve warm or at room temperature.
Recipe Notes
I streamlined this recipe by using an oven proof skillet to fry the eggplant, cook the sauce, and then make the casserole. If you don't have a cast iron skillet, feel free to use a casserole dish instead.
One of our bigger safety projects this summer has been to build our ditch bag. This is one of those things that we really hope we’ve wasted a bunch of money on. But should we ever need it, we want it to have exactly what we need!
There’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all ditch bag. Everyone’s is different, depending on where they boat, what the likely rescue scenarios are and the budget. Just because this is what we have does not mean it’s right for you— particularly if you are planning to go offshore.
Learn more about buying and owning a boat, gaining skills, working on your boat, buying stuff for your boat and moving aboard in Prepare to Cruise (free mini-course).
Right now, we’re cruising southern Florida and the Keys and the Bahamas. We’re not planning any multi-day passages or major offshore trips. We don’t have a lift raft; with our present cruising plans, the dinghy is our evacuation vessel. Our dinghy always has two life jackets, an anchor and a solar light aboard, so these are not part of our ditch kit.
We chose the contents of our ditch bag for:
Communication – notifying other boats and the Coast Guard of our predicament and making sure they can find us.
Injuries – people are often seriously injured in situations where a boat has to be evacuated. Burns, major bleeding and broken bones are the primary things we’re worried about.
Keeping ourselves alive – food and water are the big items, along with our daily medications.
Necessary items – if the boat is lost what would we need immediately?
Below is a simple list of our gear with links to what we bought from wherever we bought it. I plan to write some additional posts on specific pieces of gear and why we chose the model we did. Where I’ve already written about something, I include that link also.
Basic Gear for the Ditch Bag
Let’s start with the bag itself and basic gear:
Ditch bag. We bought an ACR floating ditch bag. You can also use a waterproof bag, sealed 5-gallon bucket or all sorts of other things.
Waterproof crank/solar flashlight. Disasters always seem to happen at night and you need to be able to see. Tied onto the bag where it’s easy to find first of anything.
SOLAS Reflexite reflective tape. I put tape on everything I could, paying particular attention to the “critical” gear. If it should go in the water at night, I want to be able to find it.
Lock & Lock waterproof containers. Much of the gear needs to be kept as dry as possible — and organized. I got two of these (they fit the old Orion flares and are waterproof vs. the round flare container in the photo above) and already had one of these (for papers). Some of the others that I bought seem to no longer be made/sold, but you can see all the Lock & Lock containers available from Amazon here (Amazon seems to usually have the most sizes). The airspace inside these will also help the bag to float.
Duct tape — as much as there’s room for (wrap some around a pencil if you need to make a small roll).
Swim noodle, cut into chunks. The ditch bag says it will float 25 pounds of gear but we want to be sure it will float if we miss getting it into the dinghy. Air in the Lock & Lock boxes will help, but I also took a swim noodle and cut it into chunks to put into every nook and cranny I could.
Communication Gear
Communication is the first key since we are near other boats and the Coast Guard (assuming we can’t make it to shore under our own power, which is also a possibility with the dinghy). We believe that with the following, we would be found within 72 hours (actually, less than that, but for food purposes . . .):
Handheld GPS (and 8 sets of extra batteries) — ours is 10 years old but still works; lithium batteries hold their power in storage. Phone has GPS too for backup but we want to be able to tell rescuers exactly where we are.
All the old flares on the boat (red and smoke) — don’t meet USCG requirements since out of date but in an emergency I want all the flares I can get my hands on!
Gloves to hold flares— slag will drip from burning flares and everyone who has ever fired one off says “have gloves!”
Cyalume sticks— these are the sticks that night divers use — bend it and it lights up even in water
Day signal flag — it was on the boat; frankly doubt anyone would see it since it’s less than a yard square
2 ACR C-light strobes(use same batteries as GPS) — got a special deal or we wouldn’t have gotten them; we have strobes on our PFDs (Update: if ACR unavailable, consider the See-Me Waterproof LED light)
About a month after we packed the ditch bag, the Sirius Signal electronic flares came out (see them on Amazon). We love the idea of not having burning slag and now have one in the bag, too. Since we think it’s impossible to have too many signalling devices, we left the other flares in, too. We carry extra batteries for the Sirius Signal — it comes with 3 “C” batteries and we carry 12 extra.
We also now have an inReach SE satellite tracker/communicator. We really got it to show where we are online and for the text communication ability, but it would be invaluable in an emergency. On passage, it’ll be hooked onto the ditch bag “just in case.”
First Aid
We figure that a fire, explosion or holing the boat are the most likely reasons we’d have to abandon ship. Consequently, our ditch bag contains what I call our “oh shit!” medical supplies to deal with burns, major bleeding and broken bones, along with a few more everyday items. You may have different needs or feel different products are best. This is one area where you just can’t take everything, so figure out what you are most likely to need that would be life-saving.
We are coastal cruising and with our communication devices we plan (hope!) that help will arrive within three days. Hence, no fishing gear or watermaking capability.
Water — four ounces per person per day is considered the absolute minimum. I can’t imagine that in the heat of south Florida at certain times of the year. Instead of the little pouches (expensive!) I bought a package of 12 12-ounce water bottles for just a couple bucks at the grocery!
Dog water dish— Paz is small so we just use a silicone muffin cup as her travel water bowl. I stuck an extra one in the ditch bag.
SOS Emergency Food Rations — 1200 calories per person per day, with a tiny bit given to Paz (she eats less than 100 calories a day). 5 year shelf life and food that won’t make you thirsty. Supposedly doesn’t taste too bad.
Sunscreen — if you’ve just had to abandon the boat, sunscreen isn’t at the top of your list. But in south Florida, you’re going to burn fast!
Sun hats — not the prettiest, but it’ll keep us more comfortable and help avoid dehydration. Plus you can wet it with salt water and stick it on your head for major cooling action! Got the white (milk) as it’ll be coolest in the sun.
Daily medications – a 5-day supply and we change it out every month.
Items Needed When We Reach Safety
With luck, our phone (discussed under communications) will be with us and still working. But pretty much everything else we own is on the boat. What will we need in those first few days?
ID – copies of our passports and drivers licenses
Health insurance cards (copies) — chances are good that we’ll need medical care in an abandon ship scenario.
Car keys – since we are coastal cruising and have a car, we’re want to be able to use it to put our lives back together. Easier than calling a locksmith and having a new key made.
Boat documentation and insurance (copies)
Credit card copies — some companies will issue an extra card, which is even better
Cash
Bottom Line
Note that this is emphatically not an offshore ditch bag. We are coastal cruising in an area with good rescue services. This is what we feel will serve us where we are going in the near future. It’s possible that we’re wrong. I hope we never find out if we did it right!
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